ALASKA INLAND PASSAGE
ADVENTURE!
June 2 - June 15
Monday June 2
Baker City to Pasco, WA (TriCities Airport)
Alaska Airlines to Seattle, Ketchikan, ….stuck
Well, this has turned out to be quite a day! We take off from Baker City right on schedule at 10:15, driving up to the Tri-Cities airport in Pasco, WA (with a stop at Walmart for a couple last minute purchases.) Smooth sailing!
Airport long term parking was full, but we managed to find a spot where we were directed instead. Still just $12 a day...not too bad. Breezed through TSA check as hardly anyone else was in the airport, but we were 2 plus hours ahead of time.
Gradually airport began to fill up. Smooth flight to Seattle on a SkyWest flight (smaller airplane). Grabbed a few quick views of Mount Adams and Mount Ranier enroute.
Seattle airport was an absolute zoo!! People everywhere!! We had to take an underground rapid transit to another terminal to catch our Juneau bound flight. Stopped and picked up some chicken pesto sandwiches (good!) A full plane heading north!
And a smooth flight above the clouds which was all we could see until we dipped under for a landing on the island just west of Ketchikan – prolly the only flat enough space for a runway!
And then….things went south. Passengers got off and got on, we pulled out briefly and then stopped. Told we had some issues the pilots were working on. Pulled back into the terminal. Electric panel issues. Waited an hour with several ‘blackouts’ as they attempted to ‘reboot’ (The magical fix according to Jed!) Didn’t work.
Everyone off the plane and into a very small little terminal (with some great artwork!) to stand in line for about 2 hours to get rebooked and hotel vouchers for the night. Rick and I finally rebooked on our own, once assured that Alaska will reimbursed for the $544 it cost! Got a hotel voucher and with a couple other passengers heading to the Super 8, we called a shuttle cab (no charge) and took the airport ferry to the mainland, got our cab, and rode the 7 minutes down to the Super 8. Ketchikan is very spread out on the limited amount of flat space they have for building. Upon arrival at the Super 8 we found another mass of people awaiting the check in process! Most hotels aren’t ready for such an influx of people at 12:30am!! And then? A long pause when the credit card the airport had issued the vouchers on began to reject (two many similar charges in a row – what did they expect?) Several folks just paid themselves, but by the time we got up front Alaska had sent new numbers! Not sure where all of the 125 or so passengers ended up, but I expect about 30 were sent to the Super 8.
We are FINALLY into a room shortly after 1am and in bed by 1:30. A late night considering it was 2:30a Pacific time from when we got up this morning – with my 5:30am rising! But...it was a good mattress!!
I have been in a massive haiku writing mode (thank you cousin Lorrie!) since April, so each day will also include pictures accompanied by a related haiku.
TUESDAY, June 3
Ketchikan to Juneau by air via Sitka (hopefully!)
Up around 7:30 to shower and grab a bite in the breakfast room (limited options but we managed!) Browsed internet to see what is available for ‘sightseeing’ and the town is so spread out it is hard. Hotel/airline will only take care of our shuttle back to ferry landing, and we don’t want to drag our suitcases with us everywhere.
Spend a little time catching up on journal, phones calls, and use of internet before taking off to explore the little mall next door before checking out at noon.
Hmmm...little mall wasn’t so little. I think it might have been an old fish processing plant or something – two levels filled with everything from Mcdonalds and Taco Bell to furniture stores, toy store, hair saloon, Safeway, you name it. Makes sense to put it all under one roof in a rainy city! Wandered around a bit more checking out the channel and islands and then back to hotel to check out at noon.
Got a Sourdough Cab Co ride back to the airport ferry terminal and then pulled our luggage behind us as we walked a half mile BACK south to a restaurant to grab a meal – afterall, the airline is paying for it! We saw several ‘fellow travelers’ in there as well!
Walk back to ferry landing and don’t have to wait long to catch the boat across the channel to the airport. Inside lines are short (temporarily!) and I ask multiple questions of the counter gal about procedures, our boarding passes, etc. Apparently we didn’t do things RIGHT! I bought NEW tickets rather than rebooking. Oops. The guy running around last night trying to help wasn’t real clear in his instructions, especially to those of us who don’t fly often and haven’t dealt with these issues. Luke would have known just what to do! Long phone call for attendant with customer service, but long story short - We have boarding passes and seats on the new flight (which was now overbooked!) and they were processing a credit on our purchased tickets. We messed up the meal voucher as well, not realizing there was a credit card number on the paper to use (plus that famous QR code!) I think we were tired last night! Hopefully our submission to Costumer Care will result in a little bit of refund money.
And now we are chilling in the boarding area of the airport. Have about 2 hours before boarding.
Big crowd gathered in boarding area by 5pm – half heading south to Seattle and the rest of us going to Sitka and Juneau! Full planes. Smooth trip to Sitka but on the ground for at least 45 minutes (we needed to refuel some!) and then another 30 minutes to Juneau. We called and got our ride to come pick us up and take us the 9 miles back into downtown Juneau and the old, but stately 6 story Baronof Hotel.
They lost our reservation. Apparently the gal Rick talked with last night marked NO SHOW and deleted instead and indicating change date? Not sure, but desk man (head man?) made it all right and we have a 6th floor room (no view of harbor tho) that has a separate kitchenette. (Limited plugs as most 1930 era buildings lack!) Plumbing is a little dated in terms of shower, drippy faucets, etc. But…..it works!
In bed shortly after 10 ready to truly begin this vacation!!
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 4
TAKU LODGE Seaplane Glacier Tour
I arise at 6:15 and spend a quiet morning in the kitchenette on the computer catching up!
Around 9 Rick and I head out to explore down along the waterfront before our 11am date with Taku Lodge Seaplane Adventures! There are 4 cruise ship on dock and they are just now beginning to debark and flood the downtown. Wow….but then again this is Juneau’s summer economy on display! I love seeing the native art – murals and totems. But there is a long line of little gift shops that all cater to the cruise crowd – the sellers out front trying to entice you in. Many of them expensive jewelry vendors – the diamonds were glittering in the sun!
We checked out Taku Fish market (they were advertising free samples!) and eventually made our way back to the Seaplane place. Bought a couple postcards to send to Allens and Eggers – a nice setup – prestamped and they’ll mail it for you!
We are assigned the Orange plane as the Moose Group – ten of us per plane. We all are belted in – 5 to a side – and the plane takes off! The plane ride is only 25 minutes to the lodge, but we pass over 5 different glaciers, and see magnificent views of the various cirques and river valleys. Snow tipped ridges everywhere and the broad Taku river with its islands and sand bars. I can’t totally describe it all. We looked down on deep turquoise blue pools in some places, but in many the slivers of blue that marked crevasses and pits in the glacier surface. All these glaciers are part of the Juneau Icefield, which extends as far north as Skagway. The icefield extends to the east into Canada.
We land at the 1923 Lodge right around noon and deplane quickly as a group is waiting to return in the planes we were in. About a half hour to wander the grounds which are lush with green. I am surprised to see daffodils just blooming, but also wild strawberry blossoms, lupine, bunchberry, plus salmonberry and thimbleberry. Not to mention LOTS of Devil’s Club AND mosquitos!!
The dining room is crowded with 50 people – our meal included fire cooked salmon, beans, coleslaw, baked apples, sourdough bread, a parmesan roll. Topped off with ginger cookies.
After lunch Rick and I wander out to Sometime Waterfall on a beautiful trail through the woods. The water was definitely falling as it isn’t late in the season yet! Fiddleheads and Devil’s Club lined the way. Our biggest disappointment was we didn’t see any bears.
About a 15 minute flight back to town. Then we wander further north this time and find the IGA store to pick up a few breakfast items and evening snacks. A stop at the Trading Post before going back to the Baronof, but prices are HIGH and not stuff I can take with me the rest of the way. Found a few native designs I liked though!
Back to the hotel to just CHILL! Watched a little of the Women’s College World Series while I played with photos and wrote, etc. Enjoyed some of the bottle of wine we purchased earlier (in Alaska you have to get it at the liquor store, not grocery!)
We have an earlier start in the morning. Will hit the sack earlier tonight!
THURSDAY, June 5
Tracy Arm Fjord Tour
HAPPY 74th BIRTHDAY, RICK!
Up around 6:15 to catch up on computer/photos/writing! We grab our yogurt/granola breakfast and head down to the docks around 7:45a to meet our boat. About 10 of us wait to load, surprised there are so few of us. A good conversation with a local gal who is going out with her visiting Colorado brother and his wife. We load, wondering if they are really taking us out with so few on board. And then…..the cruise ship folks arrive – about 85 of them!! The boat quickly fills up!
Today is a long tour – 7 hours scheduled – as we boat down the passage about 40-50 miles to the end of the Tracy Arm Fjord. We pass inland from Admiralty Island for much of the way (which incidentally hosts the large concentrated population of brown bears in the world) The water is quite choppy as the wind is blowing and it is raining. Doesn’t make for the best viewing as the windows of the boat constantly fog up and the rain outside blurs vision anyway. Rick is trying out his ‘patch behind the ear’ as he has a tendency toward motion sickness on boats. (It worked!)
As we neared the entrance to the fjord we had a humpback whale sighting. I wasn’t able to get a picture, as the moment you see the tail wave it disappears below the surface! But the waters were MUCH calmer in the fjord and as we motored up at a bit slower pace we were greeted with cascades of water pouring down the hillsides both port and starboard (did you like my boat references there??) I was able to bounce back and forth from our front of the boat location (those of us who boarded early had the pick of the seats!) to go outside at the back or up on top for photos. All my pictures, except for the icebergs, could be black and white as the day was a bit gray in color!!
As we went further up the fjord we saw more and more icebergs in the water – of various sizes. The large ones reminded me of the salt lick sculptures – crazy formations shaped by melting waters. And the deep turquoise blue colors were gorgeous, especially the magical glow of the water surface where the berg drops below. I think the icebergs might have been my favorite part of the trip!
Later in the summer the tour goes up both arms of the fjord to visit the North and South Sawyer glaciers (they were once one glacier), but the South is the one actively producing all the icebergs and the channel is so plugged up this time of the year they can’t travel there. So we visited the North, which has receded enough that the terminal end is now above the land – hence no more calving.
I counted a dozen cascading waterfalls pouring down the cliffs on either side. We saw a seal (distant). There were deep blue, albeit dirty, cracks on the glacier tip. We took some pictures.
Heading back down the fjord and back north we saw a couple more humpback whales. Except for those sightings, much of the boat (an older crowd) was nodding off during the almost 2 hour return – the waters a LITTLE less choppy. Nonetheless, my fitbit recorded at least 7000 steps while I wasn’t moving on the boat!
One other fun thing we watched was the two gal workers using a large fishing net to ‘catch’ a passing baby iceberg (prolly 30 lbs baby!) and bring it into the galley to chop up and serve with drinks on the way back!
We are back into Juneau around 3pm. There are now 5 cruise ship docked in the harbor and people everywhere in the downtown. We stop at Juneau Drug for a few purchases and then wander back to the hotel, bypassing a birthday dinner today for a more relaxed one tomorrow! We have some munchies in the room!
Evening spent relaxing and on the phone – first with Luke and then with Jed. A good ending to a good day!!
FRIDAY JUNE 6
Juneau Exploration!
We are a little slow in getting going today as Rick is feeling some of the sinus effects of switching to a humid climate after the dry Eastern Oregon air! But, by 11am we are on our way to explore a little. We visit the Russian Orthodox Church (which is a nice little climb from the hotel!) and the House of Wickersham, built in 1899. We stopped and purchased some postcards and then spent a little time in the Heritage Coffee Shop enjoying a muffin and coffee while writing our notes.
Then a walk to the Alaska State Museum where we spent over an hour saturating ourselves with Native history, then Russian history, World War 2, etc. The museum especially covers the unfair treatment of the native Americans by all other parties and the attempt to suppress culture and customs. I appreciated the formal apology from the Presbytery of Alaska that was included in one of the displays. (Presbyterians were ‘assigned’ Southeast Alaska – the passage area – as well as an area around Barrow. This explains Sheldon Jackson college in Sitka!)
We mail our postcards and then gather at DeckHand Dave’s fish taco food court right next to the Baranof. Salmon fish tacos and fries for dinner!
Back to the hotel to gather our laundry and visit the laundromat attached to the hotel. About an hour plus spent reading and doing crosswords while the clothes spun around! Quiet evening in the room prepping to leave in the morning, bound for Gustavus.
SATURDAY JUNE 7
Juneau to Gustavus, Bartlett Cove
Well, I will get started on today’s adventures while we sit and wait in the Glacier Bay Lodge for our room to be ready. Might mention to Trisha that Knightly Tours didn’t exactly think this leg of the trip through….to have us land at Gustavus at 10:10, travel to Bartlett Cove (10 miles) and then have to wait until perhaps 3 to get into our room! Plus Rick is not feeling well and sounds even worse. Rumbling cough, chills at times, etc. We picked up some Nightime cold medicine in Juneau a couple days ago, but it seems to be getting worse, not better. I feel for him as this was a trip so highly anticipated. Would like to get into our room so he can truly crash before tomorrow’s boat ride.
Enough of that. We checked out and found that the Baranof did not charge us for Monday night, so perhaps we will get a refund from Knightly Tours on that one as well. I also awoke to find emails from Alaska airlines and the credits for our purchased plane tickets Ketchikan to Juneau. Another positive!
Our ride is right on time to pick us up at 8:15 and make the 15 minutes drive up the coast to the Juneau airport. We are booked for our next 3 flights on Alaska Seaplanes – which are both float planes and wheeled planes (the wheels pop out the bottom of the floats) Our plane only seats 8, and there are just 4 of us this morning. (Maybe the later flight was already full – who knows??) NOT a big plane!!
Takeoff is smooth and fast. The first part of the trip is quite choppy as the wind is blowing! A little unnerving! But then things smooth out abit and we are able to look down on island upon island, all covered with green trees and bordered with the green/brown edge of tidewater. About midway through flight we hit some fog and our pilot lowers elevation abit. The flight was only 25 minutes long at best! Smooth landing at Gustavus, our baggage is unloaded and brought to the little rustic gate for us to take off ourselves! A driver and van from Glacier Bay Lodge awaits us! The other two on the plane were met by someone who lives in Gustavus I think. (Appeared to be a musician scheduled to play somewhere around here!)
Nice driver who took us to the lodge. A school bus driver during the winter months from Wasilla, AK. Decided he wanted something a little different this summer when the summer school cut back to just 4 weeks. Change of pace and scenery! He stopped so I could take a picture at the entrance to the national park and pointed out various trailheads along the way, as well as a few bear stories, etc.! After our 10:10 arrival at the airport in Gustavus, we pull into Glacier Lodge shortly before 11.
While Rick crashes and naps on the soft couches of the lobby (in front of a beautiful big fireplace) I wandered through the gift shop and the visitor center displays upstairs at the lodge. And so we wait….more later.
4:20pm FINALLY! We are in our room – rather secluded as it is in the far corner of the complex of rooms all connected by a boardwalk through the spruce forest. Rick has immediately gone to ‘bed’ trying to get warm again. The lodge lobby wasn’t all that toasty – especially compared to the warmth I felt when I went into the restroom!
So we basically spent 5 hours napping, playing games on the computer, writing, doing crosswords and Sudokus while waiting for the room to be ready. Official check in is 4pm but the gal at 11 said we should be in by 3. Didn’t happen. Ah well – make the best of it! Around 2 we went into the restaurant part and grabbed some late lunch, eating only half so we can finish it for ‘dinner’. We can pick up a few snacks in the gift shop and there is a breakfast grab and go in the morning. Might send Rick in to grab for the $15 and I’ll eat some of it. We do get lunch on the boat. We had hoped to pick up a few food items at the store in Gustavus, but shopping isn’t on the list of activities for our shuttle driver! :)
I might put my shoes back on in a few and take a walk along the boardwalk, etc – not too far by myself, however, as there are BEARS and porcupines and other critters in these woods!
Being on the outside of the rooms, however, gives us a very pristine view out the window – can’t see the water, but spruce and hemlock trees in abundance – all with their little green tips of new growth. The rooms do not have wifi however – our waiter at lunch gave that little bit of information. Lodge lobby, yes, rooms no. Ah well! Also I have very poor cell service...or none at times! Wilderness!
I did take a walk around the maze of boardwalk, noting the multiple signs that said slippery when wet (when is it ever not wet?) There are about 55 rooms scattered about. After returning to room for about 30 minutes, I headed back to the Visitor Center area for the ranger talk at 6pm Interesting and informative! So many of the glaciers have been receding since I was here 48 years ago! When I went back for the ranger program a busload of cruise folks had just arrived and the desk was busy calling out names and handing out tickets! The dining room is now packed with people!
Rick has mostly been in bed sleeping and resting since we got into the room. I only pray he feels well enough to make the trip tomorrow – masked to prevent spreading anything, but able to sit and enjoy the vista. I think he finished his dinner at least!
Heading in to bed early! We have to be down on the dock at 7 in the morning!
SUNDAY JUNE 8
Glacier Bay Boat Tour!
I set the alarm clock (one step up from the Baronof – we have a clock!) as well as my phone alarm – just to be sure we don’t miss it! Rick had bouts of coughing during the night, but he is up and ready to roll.
We hit the breakfast buffet area, but apparently didn’t understand clearly the waiter last night. We picked up some of the ‘continental’ items, limiting ourselves to one plate (figuring it was the $15), but got billed for 2 buffets total $44. I complained and the very nice waiter charged us ‘a la carte’ pricing and gave me an amended bill for $10. He got a $10 tip! Made us a little late for the boat boarding, but we were ok!
This catamaran style boat has seating for nearly 200, but I imagine we don’t have more than 75-100 on board. There are a lot of open seats! Rick and I plop down in similar seats to Tracy Arm...right in the front on the lower level. Only this boat is much bigger! And the windows don’t fog up!
The park service ranger on board did an outstanding job all day. She was filled with information, plus kept an ever changing display of interesting activities, books, ‘feely-touchy’ furs, etc.
Our first slowdown was at South Marble Island to view a sea lion colony. The rocks were covered! I especially liked the big daddy of them all on a rock overlooking his kingdom. You could hear his bellowing noises!
We slow for some humpback whales (I never got a sighting, but Rick says he saw the ‘blow’. We saw sea otters and mountain goats. I spent a lot of time bouncing back and forth from the lower deck with Rick to the upper outside deck for pictures, viewing. We had rain during the early part of the tour, but by mid-day the sun had come out and we even had some blue skies in places. Rain again on the way back down, but that was ok. My phone/camera was dead by then!
We visited Margarie Glacier and Lambaugh Glaciers, and could see John Hopkins and Reid in the distance. Not as many large icebergs floating around as Tracy Arm surprisingly. Spent a half hour just moored in front of Margarie so everyone could have plenty of viewing time.
The mountains surrounding the bay are glorious – snowy peaks, deep gouged valleys, waterfalls. In places the line demarking the switch from glacier silt meltoff and the deep blue of the channel waters was stark – who drew that line in the bay?
The rarity for the day was the orca whale sighting. Ranger said you only see them about 10% of the trips. And we spotted a pod that were fairly visible for 10 minutes or more. Hard to time photos, so I finally just took a video and will hope for the best!
Last highlight of the day was during the long block of time as we headed back down the bay toward Bartlett Cove. Ashley our ranger is also an artist, and she brought along watercolor pencils and crayons, small pieces (4x6 and 3x4) of watercolor paper, brushes, and glacial water to do a little artwork! I loved it! I left my artwork to put up in the boat ‘gallery’ after I took pictures of it. I did a native rendition of the orca in the waters and then tried out the crayons on a puffin!
We are back to the boat dock at 3:15 or so. I thought I heard the ranger say the Tlingit house was open, but when Rick and I walked down there, it was locked. I had read it is closed on Sunday and Mondays. Should have checked it out yesterday, but by the time I realized the closed days, it was already closed for Saturday. Rats. I do want to try and get a picture of the totems, etc out front.
We saved part of our lunch for a dinner snack, but needed some ice, so I wander down to find it. Apparently the front desk has to get it for you! Mission accomplished, plus the desk called the Guided Kayak trips to double check our reservation and time.
Back down to the lodge lobby around 5:20 to try and connect to the internet. No luck on either phone or laptop, so no pictures will get edited and posted tonight either. I’ll be busy once we get to Sitka!! I do attend the ranger talk on MIGRATIONs at 6pm – focusing on humpback whales, salmon, and the arctic tern. Interesting.
In the room by 7 with fresh snacks on hand. Rick has showered and is back in bed sleeping off and on. Guess I’ll sit and work on some more haiku! And maybe draw another picture myself!
MONDAY, JUNE 9
SeaKayak Adventure on Glacier Bay
Up and ready to roll an hour early! Our breakfast is sparse...Rick still has a half sandwich (waterlogged from the ice) and some gorp. I eat a cheese stick (only one left now!) and much a few of my white cheddar popcorn chips I bought last night. We are supposed to get a snack on the tour!
We meet up with Nina and Brittany right at 9am. We are the only ones on the guided tour this morning, which will be nice! A trip down to the beach and the shelters they keep their equipment locked up in. It takes 20 minutes or so to get us outfitted! Rubber boats, waterproof suspender bib pants, our kayak ‘apron’, life-jackets, etc. Rick opted for their rain coat, I chose to use my pink, but we carried the other along just in case it did rain. ATM … dry! A quick lesson in getting in and out of the kayak …. Interruption! Brittany spied a mama moose and her baby coming up from the shoreline. So many trees, but I did manage to get a picture of mama as she emerged further down the trail. A special sighting!
On down to the shoreline where the gals put our boat in the water and we boat get in and adjust our aprons to seal all water out. (FYI – they work!) We spent nearly the next hour paddling around the inner bay watching a humpback whale blow, surface, blow, surface. Never a fluke showing or a dive as the water is so shallow. At one point we thought he was still behind us and then he blew and surfaced not 100 feet from Brittany! I gave up trying to anticipate the next spot to get a picture. Decided to just enjoy the experience of watching! (I do have my phone/camera in a waterproof bag with neck strap from which I can shoot the pictures directly. Can’t take a chance of dropping it in the water!)
Eventually we move on toward the campground point and paddle down the shoreline a bit further – now out of sight of the dock. We spy a sea lion head bobbing in and out of the water and many sea otters all over. Pass over a thick bed of kelp and sea weeds – massive in size! Snacks (a choice of candy bars!) are handed out over the water and Rick and I grab a drink of water.
The sun came out, blue skies began to appear, and it was a very nice kayak adventure. No bears, but the humpback was worth it! Nina and Brittany conversed with us often, sharing stories, life histories, adventures, etc. Brittany has even spent a night in Baker City, part of a year long road trip around the US. Nina lives in Gustavus. Brittany has been guiding kayaks for 15 years at Glacier Bay, but will be moving on to something new in Homer at the end of the season.
Back to the dock at 12:15. I take a few pictures walking back to the room with a charged camera which I didn’t have yesterday! Couple hours of relaxation (be honest, Ginger, nodding off?) and we head to the restaurant/lobby for a main meal of the day before the lunch menu shuts down at 3pm.
We team up with an order of Crab/Artichoke dip with flatbread (excellent) and a Glacier Burger to split (can’t pass up another order of their tasty french fries!) Nothing goes back to the room today! We ate it all. Then a visit to the park displays upstairs and the gift shop. I found a new hat that is beautiful turquoise – kinda northern lights flair. Since they were 2 for $30 Rick bought a hat also!
Back to the room to relax, altho I took a moment to walk back down to the Tlinglit hut for some better pictures in the sunshine. Found a ranger talk was taking place so I tried not to interfere. The hut wasn’t open, but I got some good pictures of the totems, etc. Also some marsh flower photos!
Now we are on hold until our 5am departure in the morning for the shuttle to take us back to the Gustavus airport and our flight back to Juneau and then Sitka. Perhaps we shall take in the ranger talk this evening before an early bedtime!
I walked back to the lobby/visitor center at 6 for the ranger talk. This one was on Changemakers in the Park. A different ranger every night! Good information about Keystone Species and the various effects each species has on the environment as a whole. Specifically talked about bears, otters, wolves, and blue swallows (yes, birds!) The presentation was good, but the porcupine sighting on the way back was the highlight! I was up on the boardwalk when another couple waved and pointed. Sure enough on the path below was a fat colorful porky waddling around eating away at the fireweed seedlings especially. He used his front paws to grab the branch and eat like a piece of corn on the cob! Fun to watch for about 10 minutes.
Showers, chill time and early to bed. Alarms are set for 4:30am. We catch the shuttle at 5am.
TUESDAY JUNE 10
Gustavus to Juneau to Sitka
Today is a travel day! And an early one! We are up at 4:30, altho Rick had to shake me awake as I slept through both alarms, in the middle of a good dream! Quickly pack up and are at the front of the lodge at 5 til 5 where we find the van already waiting! We are the only passengers this early in the morning!
And the hour pays off as shortly after leaving we are graced with a black bear crossing the road in front of us! Due to park restrictions and the abundant wildlife the speed limit on this road is only 35 mph, which means you take it as a leisurely pace! We watch abit as bear crosses, paws at the grass a bit, and then roams off into the forest. Rest of drive uneventful.
We find we are the only passengers on the 6:10 flight to Juneau as well! Kinda a charter! Our pilot is flying up from Juneau to get us, but we are on the plane and in the air shortly after 6! Pilot Gabe appears VERY young, but quite capable. And the weather has cleared enough with patches of blue and the sun poking through clouds to make it a BEAUTIFUL flight to the capital city. Mountains and snow everywhere. Puffy clouds. Large stretches of muskeg meadows with vibrant greens and gold. Islands and channels of water. As we enter Juneau we get a good view of Mendenhall Glacier to the east.
About an hour wait at the Juneau airport – we grab some mochas and a huge muffin to share. I roam the gift shop. SeaAlaska runs multiple flights a day to all the major towns and villages of the Inland Passage. And Gabe is our pilot for the next leg of our trip!…
...Which is just as beautiful! Rick grabs my phone at one point as the plane is making a shadow in a sun halo off to the right. I just keep taking pictures of mountains and channels of water! We did not have a private ride this leg, however, but traveled with four other passengers, one of whom carried his little dog on his lap. Far fewer regulations with SeaAlaska!!
Into the Sitka airport where we call for our ride. It takes awhile to get through, but eventually our driver from the Aspen Suites shows up and ferries us over the bridge and into downtown Sitka, which, like Juneau, is lined with gifts shops and venders catering to the cruise lines.
And like Glacier Bay, our room will not be ready until 3pm. It is now 10am. The front desk stores our suitcases in a safe place, but we are left with 5 hours to kill.
We head down the road, which has considerable traffic, and find a little cafe for a bit more breakfast. Coffees and blueberry toast with blueberry cream cheese on top. $20. But I am able to charge up the phone a bit and we begin making calls to Wilderness Kayak Adventures to inquire the status of tomorrow’s trek. (Calls we continued to make up until 7pm with no answer and no ability to leave a voice mail.)
Eventually we find the Market (but no backpacks inside and I’m not leaving my laptop unattended!) but will come back later to purchase some food. Stumble back into a gift shop that advertised 25 cent postcards – that was our clue: this is a gift shop with reasonable prices! My other clue were the lavendar hoodie sweatshirts out front at 50% off. Score! I might have to wear it home, but we’ll make room!
We also passed a second hand store that had shelves of books outside for free! Finally, I can swap my paperback for another one. I knew I held on to it for a reason. Pick up a Jan Karon about Mitford that I don’t THINK I have read before!
Since we had already walked around the Russian Orthodox Church and its twin spires once, we went in finally. Learned a few things about the differences between the Catholic Church and Orthodox and were amazed at the metal engravings on all the icons. So ornate. So unPresbyterian to me, but the artist can appreciate it all. Orthodox priests can marry. (Just one tidbit I picked up!)
Back to the hotel to chill in the lobby (only a couple chairs!) for two hours until the room is ready. But at least I had a book to read. Rick did crosswords. Both of us were fighting nodding off!
Our room is on the fourth floor overlooking the fire station across the street. But I can see water beyond, the tower of the Russian Orthodox church and the bridge. A nice kitchen unit, spacious bathroom, couch, but just a queen bed. I’ll have to get cozier with Rick’s coughing tonight. :)
We walk back to the Market (just a 5 minute walk from hotel) and pick up some soup, bread, fruit, crackers and yogurt. Plus Rick’s replenishing of Night time cold medicine!!
I am delighted to find the internet good and with both phone and laptop connected, the photos start transferring – with the right labels!! I spend much of the evening catching up on haiku pictures, and my daily prayer photos. Will catch up on this journal in the morning! Early to bed – been a long day! (Altho not as long as the first one!)
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11
Wilderness Sea Kayaking Adventure!
Well, after spending a better part of two hours trying to contact our tour folks...we are scheduled and in for the day!! After making a phone call with no results early, I went downstairs to the front desk and the gal was able to get through to Knightly Tours. Couple of return phone calls over the next hour and agent Linda finally got through to the company. Nolan said YES! They are a go! Thank you Linda for following through for us. Apparently they haven’t ‘turned on’ their message machine for the season. Hmmmm …. oh well. We have an hour to get ready to roll!
Here is what our information says to expect today:
“Alaska’s highest value half-day kayaking tour! Climb aboard their fast, cutom-built vessel for an exciting sightseeing tour enroute to their floating base camp. Your knowledgeable captain will identify points of interest and scan for wildlife. Enjoy a hot Alaskan snack at our float house while being instructed in the use of two person kayaks and paddle technique. These stable, maneuverable craft let you enjoy the beauty of the protected bays and inlets near Sitka. Your experienced guide will interpret unique attractions, colorful, intertidal invertebrates, an eagle swooping or the grandeur of the lush rainforest. You may even see brown bears, whales, harbor seals, or Sitka black-tailed deer.”
Rick and I wander down the three blocks to the Boat Basin and Centennial Hall where we are to meet our guides. A little confusion at first, but I ask some questions and get answers that steer us correctly. Discovered just one other couple is going (off a cruise ship and from Seattle). They wouldn’t normally run the tour for just 4 (6 is their minimum) but Nolan says it is too pretty a day to stay in! Good to hear!
We are off a little ahead of schedule (not hard to ramrod 4 people) so get a little extra tour time in the bay checking out the lighthouse, sea lions on a buoy, etc. Then he puts the pedal to the metal and our ‘banana boat’ as the locals call this oversized zodiac inflatable (with two BIG engines) hits high speed and we fly across the water. I THINK my map is accurate as to where we went. Docked at the floating base camp in a little bay – couple other floating cabins that are AirB&Bs! The zodiac picks up about a dozen from the early morning tour to return to the harbor.
This tour doesn’t quite have the equipment quality of our Glacier Bay outfit. Since it isn’t raining, we aren’t provided raincoats. No boots or special gloves. We did get aprons, however! And most disconcerting as I learn – no rings on the oar that help keep the water from running down into our hands and sleeves! My gloves get so soaked that I eventually take them off for the duration of the kayak.
We saw the sea lions and some bald eagles – sadly no bears (they saw one yesterday!) and no sea otters. Hopefully we will get more of that tomorrow on the whale watch. We did see remains of an old Russian ship – now really a tree log covered with green growth. Lots of sea stars and sea urchins on the shoreline in the tidal zone. Dan our guide kept us informed – much of his information a repeat of other tours, but that is to be expected!
Back at the ‘base camp’ we are treated to hot soup and hot cider while we wait for the banana boat to return. We learn they have a group of 36 for the next tour!! Ouch! I can’t image that many! Another God-mercy that we got to go with such a small group!
Back to the hotel to chill for a bit (or more accurately dry a few things out and warm up!) But then it is time for some food! And a bottle of wine! You can’t buy wine in Alaska in the grocery store, so I look up on the internet for liquor stores within walking distance. We locate a little bar and store down near the bridge a half mile away. One bottle of Pinot Gris and we then stop at a Fish Food cart down near the bay where we purchase a salmon chowder and 2 salmon sliders to share. Good conversation with the gal running the cart.
We dine in the hotel room and relax the rest of the evening...and I write, work on photos, etc.
What’s up tomorrow? Whale Watching trip!
THURSDAY, June 12
Sitka Sound Whale Watch Trip
An incredibly quiet, restful morning. I get up around 6, having gone to sleep at 9:30pm, but Rick takes advantage of no deadlines until noon and sleep until 9am. Hopefully that will help healing! Very thankful for the book I picked up...now I can’t set it down!
Found emails this morning from Swansons and more from Jack Ho. Forgot to mention one of yesterday’s highlights was Jack’s message of a great report from his doctor. Still some side effects, but the tumor is shrinking and all is on course looking good. When I mentioned something to Luke later, he said he was on the phone with Jack at the moment and sent a screen shot! Swansons came into the picture because Jack wanted to send them his greetings since we were in Alaska! Not exactly in Fairbanks, but sent an email to Swansons anyway!!
We did wander back over to the Market this morning to pick up more breakfast items, a few snacks, and spaghetti dinner for tonight.
We wander down to the docks shortly before noon in a very light rain to find our boat for the Whale Watching tour. Of course, I left the paperwork in the hotel room, so I wasn’t sure WHICH tour was ours. The area is a massive ZOO mid-day with all the cruise ship patrons. I saw a beautiful boat called the RAVEN with NW coastal designs and told Rick I wanted to ride that one. Turns out? That was the boat that had our names on the list!! Yay!
We are first on and Rick goes right up to the front row again! And glad we did because it was so noisy when the cruise folks loaded that I took my hearing aids out! A variety of languages, but mostly Spanish. And a lot of kids but they were fun to watch - the excitement when we did see some sea life (much of which was on the port side of the boat and we were starboard!) I never saw the one whale that was spotted as we left the inner harbor nor the harbor dolphins, but did see the buoy with sea lions, sea otters, and several bald eagles. Rick and I found we have been on enough tours...we are hearing the same information over and over! Maybe some of it will sink in! (Like the five types of salmon...count them on your fingers: Thumb – Chum (Dog); Pointer – Sockeye (Red); Middle (biggest) – King or Chinook; Ring – Silver Coho (like a ring); Pinky – Pink (Humpy).
We are back to the dock right on time at 2:30p and it is raining a bit harder now! Wetter walk up to the hotel. Plus a light snack of apple and a few triscuits.
It’s laundry time!! The hotel even provides a laundry basket in the room and we got our quarters this morning. Rick helped bring it all down, and then I made the next two trips down the stairs for the exercise (coming back up the stairs as well – no elevator for me!) All folded and ready to make it home!
Rick cooks up dinner – spaghetti and a slice of bread. A little wine and I have some popcorn to cook up later in the micro. Quiet evening – we have signed up for the shuttle to take us over to the airport in the morning to pick up our rental car for two days of exploration.
FRIDAY June 13
Exploring Sitka North, Totem Park
I look out the window around 6:30a and almost shout with glee – blue sky and sunshine. A gorgeous day!!
We are out front of the Aspen shortly after 9 to catch the shuttle to the airport. Another family (grandparents and grandkids) from Denver were also with us – they had a plane to catch! We find the AVIS booth and get set up with a little SUV. I have to take a million pictures before we can start out, but I love the our vehicle has the PRETTY Alaska plate – northern lights and mountains!
We drive back to the hotel and gather together our ‘stuff’ for the day – not really sure what we will find, so cameras and a few snacks, warmer coat. Our plan is to head north on the Halibut Point Road, hoping to get up the road toward Harbor Mountain. Unfortunately that road is gravel and we have promised to stay on paved roads only. RATS! So we continue to the end of the paved road! Pass the cruise ship docks and pass the ferry terminal to a large estuary where the Starrigavan River enters the sound. This was the site of the 1802 battle between the Tlingit and Russians – one in which the natives won. But in anticipation of Russian reprisal, the built a fortress south of Sitka downtown (current Totem Park) and fought the returning Russians in 1804 for 6 days before running out of ammunition. The Tlingit fled into the forests. So much bad blood between Russians, Americans, England, and Tlingit tribes over the years – fortunately it is healing in many communities throughout southeast Alaska.
I am able to get pictures of Mount Edgecumbe across the sound and its sister crater. That island is dotted with volcanoes large and small. I even found one on Google maps that has a lake in the crater! Edgecumbe is 3201’ high and still has snow. What the day has revealed is the number of sharp pointy snowy peaks to the west of Sitka – mountaintops that soared above the glaciers that rounded off the lesser peaks. Beautiful.
Good news while we are out at the point – NO Cruise ships today and tomorrow!! I had wondered when we didn’t see one docked as we drove past. That should make things much quieter in town!!
We decide to head back down and drive to the Sitka Totem Historic Park just past Crescent Bay boat basin. There are a number of trails there. That will free up some time tomorrow for the Fortress of the Bear!
Wonderful displays at the Totem Park giving information on how to identify the various animals on the totems, etc. I just love the artwork – they explained form lines and U-forms and S-forms as well! Then we head out on the mile long loop trail through the rain forest, marked with about a dozen totem poles. The final one marks the spot of the 1804 battle and the clearing where the fort used to be.
We had planned to go to the Harbor Mountain Brewing Co bar, but they aren’t open for food until 4pm (after we FINALLY located the entrance!) so back into town. We are hungry hangry! Leave the car at the hotel and end up at the Wildflour Bakery and cafe about 100 yards from hotel entrance! Both of us order ‘Gouda Gobblers’ – a turkey, cheese, pesto sandwich on foccacia bread. Good! Rick eats all of his, but I have half for dinner tonight! We also grab a Chai Snickerdoodle cookie which was quite yummy!
Then nearly an hour wandering on down through the downtown shops – delightfully quiet. However, we discovered many of them close early on Fridays to ‘catch up’ before the Cruise ship onslaught beginning again on Sunday. We picked up a few books at the free shelf, but the thrift store itself won’t open again until noon tomorrow. We were tired, but kept walking because the weather was so beautiful, the mountains were calling. And….we kept seeing bald eagles fly overhead! I finally got some pictures of the rhodedendrons and azaleas near the hotel.
Back around 4 to read for abit and relax for the evening! I am feeling somewhat like I’ve caught whatever Rick had – achey, rough throat, tired.
SATURDAY, JUNE 14
Fortress of the Bear!
Up and ready to roll, altho my stomach is rumbling and I have some achey joints. Shortly after nine we head south on Sawmill Creek Road the five miles to the end of the pavement at Fortress of the Bear. But first, we have to pull over a few times to gaze out at the peaceful sound, the mountain peaks, fishing boats, and soaring eagles. Not to mention incredibly blue skies without a cloud in sight!!
The road ends at the old settling ponds from the mill, which was transformed between 2002 and 2007 to open as a sanctuary for orphaned bear cubs. Prior, these animals were usually euthanized when their mother was killed. The fortress currently houses 8 bears (at capacity) – 3 black bears and 5 brown bears. They are kept here until they die as they were separated before they learned ‘how to be a bear’. Handlers have taught some basic sign language (I recognized the sign for MORE – thank you Carli and Harper!) and other signals that help them in medical assessments, etc. We got there early enough to watch several during their breakfast feeding. Also had the chance to watch the resident bald eagle swoop in and steal the chicken chunks from the bear a couple times! Viewing areas are excellent, both from above the ‘pond’ railing and with windows below. A fascinating non-profit and one which we supported well in the gift shop afterwards!!
However….I was not feeling well and we decided it would be best to head back to the hotel and not stop at a potential trailhead, etc. We gassed up the rental car on the way back so it will be ready to return in the morning – but at least we have a ride to the airport with it! I curled up in bed and finished the book I picked up yesterday, while Rick walked to the market, got some 7up and Kaopectate for me and a sandwich for him.
But...around 12:30 I hear drumming out on the street. I peek out the window and see Sitka’s No-King protest parade! I would guess at least 100 people. Even little Sitka!! Love it!
Mid afternoon we walk down to the White Elephant Thrift store to return the books we have finished, but find nothing more of interest. Walk back to hotel. I feel bad to waste a gorgeous day inside! Rick is pumping me full of 7up!
We do a little pre-packing to make sure we are ready to leave in the morning around 5:45. Our flight leaves at 7:15.
SUNDAY, JUNE 15
Happy Father’s Day, Rick
Sitka to Seattle to Pasco, then drive to Baker City
Up around 5:10 before the 3 alarms we set went off! Finish the packing up and then on the road to the airport. I received a text from Avis during the night and have to do the post-rental self inspection with my phone when we get there as well. Paperwork!! Got the car all turned in and then….waited….
Apparently the Sitka fire station has said the airport can’t process more people through the TSA check than will legally fit in the pre-boarding area. (Which seems to be about capacity of 50-60?) So there are about 100+ waiting to go through TSA. Rick and I are at the front of the TSA line waiting, when the message is announced they won’t be boarding anyone until the arriving mechanic checks out an ‘issue’. Not again!! Please!
I finally feel the need to sit down, so Rick holds our place while the TSA guy lets me under the ropes to find a chair. I sit for about 10 minutes, feel a little better and I think we are close to getting to move. So I get back in line. And then??? Not sure….I ‘wake up’ to Rick and 3 airport folks surrounding me while I am sitting on the floor. They were very caring! They bring over a wheelchair and pull us out of the line. The fresh air in a new spot helps, plus the cold water the attendant brings over. Eventually, we insert back into the line in front of the last 10 folks. The plane is already 20 minutes late in leaving! Apparently we passed the mechanical problem!
Our seats are toward the back – but window seat and middle! Nice guy on the aisle side puts my suitcase up above for me, while Rick gets his situated. We lift off 35 minutes late – we only had a 50 minute layover, which is now down to 25 and we are in the back...slow to unload. I do put a mask on because I’m not sure what is going on with me!
The clouds part now and then to reveal the thousands of islands in the passage and snowy mountain peaks. I am able to pick out Ketchikan as we fly over (can even see the little airport ferry crossing!) Otherwise a smooth flight into Seattle.
But….we missed our connection. Plane was slow to unload, we had to rail to the C terminal from N, and got to our gate in time to see Boarding Gate closed. Then another line at Customer Service to get rebooked on another flight. Which we are – at 6:10. Landing around 7:30 – it will be a late night home!!
Once rebooked we find some food and a rare seat in a very crowded airport. So many terminals, so many plane flights, and so many PEOPLE! It’s chill time for 4 plus hours!! Ugh!
Later...it seemed a LONG wait, broken up happily by a phone call from Luke around 4:30p. I gave the phone to Rick since it IS Father’s Day and they visit for 45 minutes.
I will NOT put the phone on speaker and let the whole world hear our conversation!
After the call we head down to our boarding area and find our Pasco plane is….running late! Fortunately only 10 minutes, altho by the time we finally take off I think it is over a half hour behind schedule. A full flight (expected since we took the last two seats!) and we are in the last row of seats in the tail. I find I am ready to be done with flying for abit!!
Into Pasco shortly before 8, finally deboard, find our car (all is well!) and make one wrong turn getting back onto 395 south from airport. I should have pulled out my phone sooner! Quick stop at a Carl’s Jr for some food, and by 8:35 we are heading HOME!
Talked with Jed until 10pm when we lost him coming down off Meacham into the canyons before LaGrande. Let it be known his was the first phone call I have made from the new RAV car directly from the car dashboard!! Whoo whoo!
Home at 11:15 to be greeted by an excited Spur! I’m in bed by 11:45!
But wait! There's more!
Monday morning addendum…..at some point during the night I started putting two and two together in terms of our symptoms and variety and thought….hmmmm I should take a Covid test in the morning. It didn’t even take a minute for the test strip to read POSITIVE. Will give Rick a test when he gets up and Zach a call later. What can you expect from immersing yourself in huge crowds? We wore a mask on the flight up, and Rick masked some on a boat trip when his coughing was ugly. I wore a mask on the flight back to Seattle, but not after. Travel is always an ADVENTURE! PS. Rick tests negative, but it has been over a week since his possible symptoms started, so not surprising. Zach has an order in for Paxlovid for me which Rick will pick up today.
So...a good adventure! Did everything run smoothly? Of course not. Did God take care of us in the long run? Absolutely! Is the Inland Passage gorgeous and lush with glaciers everywhere, wildlife, and beauty? Yes! Is 5 cruise ships in port at once too many? YES! YES! YES! And YES! (I’ll leave one off because one is tolerable!) Did I survive the 3 days at Glacier Bay without internet or cell service? Yes, but not always willingly! :) Was it worth coming home with Covid? Again, absolutely! Am I glad to be home?? YES!!
And now...the checklist of what flora and fauna we saw (and identified!):
Wildlife: Moose, Black Bear, Brown Bear, Mountain Goat, Porcupine, Squirrel, Black Slug
Sealife: Sea Lion, Sea Otter, Seals, Orca and Humpback Whale
Birds: Bald Eagles (lots!), Heron, Puffin, gulls, robin
Trees: Sitka Spruce, western red cedar, hemlock, alder
Shrubs: Devil’s club, fiddlehead ferns, dandelions (alaska size!), wild strawberry, salmonberry, thimbleberry, huckleberry, rhodedendron, azalea
Flowers: columbine, forget me nots, dwarf fireweed, bunchberry, lupine,
Lots more flowers I couldn’t identify off the top of my head!
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