FALL
2017 HABITAT SOJOURN AND MORE…
FRIDAY,
AUGUST 25
Baker
City to Craters of the Moon National Monument
294
miles
We
left Baker City around 8am, stopped to check air in the trailer tires
at Les Schwaab, and are on our way! I drove through Boise today –
my first time with the trailer. UGH! Gas and food stop at Mountain
Home (Arby’s!) and Rick took us across the Snake River plateau –
the Sawtooths in the distance to the north, and an old lake bed of
farms and ranches surrounding us. Smoke and haze bad in Boise area,
but cleared out the further east we went.
Arrived
at Craters of the Moon National Monument around 3 and found a
campsite! By evening it was full. Up on a knoll with terrific views
and plenty of breeze. We walked up to the Visitor Center to get cave
passes for tomorrow, explore the information, and pick up some great
books for kid gifts.
The Cave Passes are new – the white nose
syndrome for bats has spread to the western states and they are
trying hard to avoid it here. We can’t wear or take anything with
us into the cave that we wore in Mammoth Caves last year, as Mammoth
is one of the really bad ones back east.
Back
to site to relax and enjoy the evening unfold. Leftover pizza from
our night with MT Nesters earlier in the week for dinner!
Beautiful
sunset, although clear skies and no clouds. The crescent moon and
Venus sinking into the western horizon was gorgeous - the moon
becoming almost orange. Right before we went to bed, the stars were
fully out and the milky Way soared across the sky. So beautiful. We
left trailer door open (screen!) and all the windows on the back bed
open. Like sleeping outside!
SATURDAY,
August 26
Exploring
Craters of the Moon
What
a beautiful morning! I slept until 7 and then saw the sun rise over
the eastern horizon. The campground is eerily quiet in the morning,
but gradually traffic on the highway begins and the sounds of
awakening happen.
We
spend a lazy morning until 10am, when we leave, with the truck, to
make the 11 mile loop of the monument. We had thought to just walk
down to the caves, but that would have been a 7.5 mile trek, and the
trip back in the hot sun on the black pavement just didn’t sound
appealing. This way, we’ll do all the stops.
So...splatter
cones with their deep shafts and snow in the bottom of one! Pahoehoe
lava and a’a lava cover the landscape, the flows very visible. But
in many places limber pine, brittlebrush and rabbitbush dot the
terrain. The rabbitbush is in bloom with its bright yellow canopy of
color. We walked the half mile Devil’s Garden nature trail – an
area of huge ‘Floaters’ - giant pieces of crust that were carried
down from the vent by the lava. They look like immense grotesque
statues.
But
the highlight is always the lava tube caves! We hiked out the black
asphalt ribbon trail over the flow first to Beauty Cave, got our
headlights going, and descended the rocky entrance. Couldn’t go
too far, but the roof of the cave appeared to be dotted with
sparkling gems – light reflecting off drips of water and ice. Boy
Scout Cave has a challenging entrance through a narrow opening. Rick
was disappointed to see the lack of ice. He remembers coming in the
spring and the whole floor was a sheet of solid ice. But it is 40
years later and nearing fall, not spring. We found a few places with
ice tucked in corners!
Our
last ‘cave’ was actually Indian Tunnel – a long lava tube with
several cave-ins along the way so light filtered in frequently. You
didn’t need the headlights. We exited at the far end through a
tiny arch tunnel of lava, into a tiny pocket, and then out. Pigeons
were roosting throughout. We got to walk across the pahoehoe to
return to the trail and the entrance, following a series of stakes.
Back
to the trailer for a late lunch, rest, and then a return to the VC
(it is slightly air conditioned!) By 4pm, there was enough shade cast
by the trailer to sit outside and relax.
Around
6 I put my shoes back on and headed out on the North Crater Nature
Trail. I wanted to finish getting my 10,000 steps and it was a
lovely cool (well, cooling!) evening. Up and over a small cinder
cove to the trail start and then a good wander through the most
recent of the flows. Back in 45 minutes!
The
sky again put on its display of stars once the sun and moon
disappeared! The campground is full, more children this time! We
have families near us. I went to sleep to the sound of a little girl
very unhappy…..
SUNDAY,
AUGUST 27
Craters
of the Moon to Rexburg, ID
118
miles
To
Rexburg and time to get to work!! Another calm, quiet morning and a
late arising! The wind is still and the birds even are silent.
We
are on our way around 9:15 – the topper of the morning is Rick’s
spies one of the rare ‘Blazing Star’ flowers in bloom right at
the campground exit. These flowers bloom at night and then close up
early in the day, so we hadn’t seen them yet! Soooo pretty!
Smoke
in the air!! And as we near Rexburg we perhaps see the reason why.
Acres of burned sagebrush plateau about 10 miles west of town –
between I15 and Rexburg.
Into
Wal-Mart for groceries and gas, and then down about 8 miles towards
Idaho Falls on US 20 to find Sheffield RV Park. I had discovered a
voice mail earlier in the day from our team leader giving directions
to the park. We get settled into a little spot (as far from the
highway as possible, thankfully!) and get set up. Two other rigs are
already here, including our friend Mike Humes, whom we built with in
Columbia Falls.
A
hot afternoon, but we get the air turned on, showers taken (they’ll
be in the trailer, not the bathhouse as it is $2 for a shower). Our
neighbors arrived during my shower and it will be cozy! I think
their RV is angled 90 degrees from us and the door is about 4’ from
the back of our trailer! Oh well! We can make it work. Nice folks
so far. ….. More later. Luke is calling!
We
gathered at 5:30 around a picnic table nearby – made introductions,
etc. Our last couple is due to arrive soon (not tomorrow!) Three
rigs who have built with CAVs 15+ times, and two rigs that are
relative newbies – this is their third build. Folks from a
high-rise in downtown Chicago to full-timers from PA to Naval officer
Mike to us from small-town rural Oregon. Quite the spread. Around 6
the Executive Director came to join us and share a little more about
their affiliate. Nice gal, who got the word on Wednesday that her
Building Supervisor wouldn’t be working Thursday-Friday-Monday.
Taking a LOOONG Labor Day
weekend! So….we hope to be able to work inspite, but have to get
permission to do so without ‘supervision’. (Politics and
paper-work!)
It
is going to cool down much nicer here in Rexburg than at Craters (all
those rocks holding in the heat!) I spend the evening catching up on
computer work since I can finally plug it in. No wifi yet – need
to get the code from the camp folk.
MONDAY,
August 28
CAV
Build Day 1
Brrr!
It definitely cooled down more! Rick grabbed the sleeping bag in
the middle of the night – it was obvious we were going to be cold
by morning! A brisk 52 in the trailer when I just got up. But the
forecast bodes for considerable warming by day’s end!
The
house site is only 5 miles up the road, so an easy 10 minutes max to
get there. It is in a very new development with CCR (restrictions,
like in Kalispell. They will have rock, garages, etc.) It is a
Mormon development. Our homeowners are a single woman with 5 kids
(NOT Mormon, but it will not be an issue) and a veteran, Shelby, his
wife, Nori, and teenage grandchild. The vet is in poor health (needs
heart surgery) so will not be able to work. We met Shelby and Nori
today (Nori worked all day) and they will be providing lunch
tomorrow. Nice folk. (I liked Shelby instantly as he was wearing a
Star Wars style shirt with “May the Lord be with you”.)
Our
site supervisor is Steve, an older guy but is becoming more and more
invested in the Habitat spirit of building. He still maintains his
construction firm on the side. I ended up working with him for the
latter two-thirds of the day – all of it out in the front of the
house in the sun!
Rick
worked with Mike H most of the day, putting up missing pieces of
sheathing from Shelby’s house – ladder, scaffolding, and up and
down work! I did a few odd jobs before Steve grabbed me for his
helper. We put up the header for the garage and built the rest of
the garage front walls. They I installed some bracing brackets (14
nails each) on one of the trusses. Then we sheathed three of the
front trusses so they didn’t have to be done after they were
raised. A crane is coming tomorrow at noon to lift the trusses up to
the top of the second floor for us. We just have to anchor them in!
This
is a good group of workers, but we were all feeling the intensity of
the heat by the end of the day. In fact, I tried to work with one of
the nail guns after I had taken off my gloves and almost burned
myself on the metal shaft. We stopped around 2:15 and cleaned up.
When
I opened up the trailer, I realized why we were so fatigued! Our
little clock/thermometer registered 106 inside the trailer. I think
that is a record for us! Ouch! But….by the time we had returned
from Happy Hour at 5:30, it was down to 78 and much more comfortable!
I don’t think the low is forecast to be as cold tonight.
We
gathered at 4 for a de-briefing and Happy Hour and chit chat for an
hour and half. I did get a wifi code this afternoon, but it is so
slow, not sure it will be worth anything. Alas.
TUESDAY,
August 29
CAV
Build Day 2
Whoa.
Today was somewhat brutal! Again in the 90’s, although the clouds
protected us for awhile. But….we worked until 5:30pm, having
started at 7:30am – a 10 hour day!
Rick spent most of the morning
finishing up sheathing projects and getting walls ready for the
trusses. I wielded the archaic nail gun and helped sheath two more
gable ends, and then switched to a sheetrock drill and we installed
the firewall sheetrock on one of the gables. Steve grabbed me to
come up and help install sheetrock on the wall of the second floor
also. (In a duplex, you must have sheetrock separating both halves
with a gap of 2” inbetween.) We were working with a deadline, as
not only was Shelby and Nori bringing in lunch, but the boom truck
was due to arrive at 1pm to raise all the trusses.
Two
houses worth of trusses is ALOT!! We didn’t finish, even though we
worked until 5:30. But we got all the really heavy and major ones
up. Still a few tricky ones to maneuver to the back of the house
(which was part of the problem for the boom truck) which we will have
to do by hand. Rick did yeoumans work – scrambling up on the
trusses, interior walls, etc. to install all the spacers, line things
up, etc. I was given the job of the tie line, which is a rope
attached to one end of the truss to help guide it into place and keep
it from spinning around in circles. Those of us on the ground crew
at least had the option of hiding in the shade between loads. We
were sending three trusses at a time up.
Everyone
was absolutely beat by the end of the day. A short meeting style
happy hour (no food or drinks!) Oh – trailer was only 101 today
when we returned!! We voted to work a short day tomorrow and perhaps
have dinner out together.
WEDNESDAY,
AUGUST 30:
CAV
Build Day 3
Last
night at our ‘meeting’, we decided to only work a half day today
since everyone was rather beat from yesterday. As it turns out, it
would have been a decent afternoon to work, as clouds covered the sky
much of the time and it even dropped a few sprinkles of rain! Plus
homeowner Prudence arrived around noon with her son Jordan, ready to
work for abit! Rats! She had also brought by a huge zucchini and a
cucumber, ice and more drinks. Promised to come back tomorrow as she
wants to help raise the rest of the trusses.
Steve
got us started on a variety of jobs today while he made a trip to the
lumberyard. Rick and Mike were finishing up the bits and pieces of
sheathing, another group fronted the garage walls on the west side,
and I went up to the upstairs level to install hurricane brackets on
all the trusses! One of my favorite jobs! At least here they have a
specific nail gun (powerful little guy – it blew my hardhat across
the room on the first nail!) that has a tip that fits right into the
holes on the clip. Push, pull the trigger, and pow! Nail in!
Shoots through the metal bracing quite easily. After abit, Gae came
up and manually hammered two nails into the clip to hold it in place
and then I came around and put the remaining 8 nails in with the gun.
I also had to go back to the brackets I installed the other day and
secure the truss to them with 6 nails each. It was a lot of lifting
the heavy nail gun, climb ladder, climb down, move heavy ladder
through bracing, wall sections, etc. I finished around 11:40 with
the west side and figured that was it. I wasn’t starting the other
side then! My arm was getting tired! And Rick said he was running
out of steam around noon as well. We must still be tired from
yesterday.
After
our showers, Rick and I discovered the water system was again leaking
until “my” seat in the trailer. Rick went to work to fix it,
once again. At 2pm we all gathered with our laptops at the picnic
table for the first two hours of Mike’s “Safety Class”.
(Technically, we get yellow hardhats for this!) At 4 we decided we
would do that last hour at another time!
Time
to take off then for Applebee’s! We took Ginny and Michael with
us, carpooling a little! Still Happy Hour time, so half-price
appetizers!! Good thing, cause our drinks cost more than the food!
Good time, however, with conversations all over the spectrum. The
group is pretty compatible.
Relaxing
time back at the campground and another early to bed evening.
THURSDAY,
August 31
CAV
Build Day 4
The
last day of August!! And it turns out to be overcast for MUCH of the
day, therefore MUCH cooler than the previous two! We’ll take it!
Local
volunteer Dave wasn’t here today, but a new local, Rick, was! Rick
will also be our contact man tomorrow when Sup Steve is gone (a
‘quick’ trip to California!) But we made progress!
While
the guys all tackled the process of getting the back trusses up, Gae
and I worked on the hurricane clips on the east end. Judy helped me
briefly. We got a shorter ladder and with someone there to hand the
gun to, all the trips up and down the ladder seemed much easier!
(Morning probably helps!) I lost my air hose and ladder after abit
as both were needed to get the trusses up. I went to help do the
preliminary lift there, and then returned with a shortie ladder to
hammer about 5 clips in by hand. WORK!! Decided to wait for my air
hose! Eventually Gae and I finished the east end, went back to
install clips on the new section just raised, and then did all the
east garage trusses. By the end, I was barely able to lift the gun
with my left hand and had used ladders, scaffolding, and even Bill’s
head in order to get into position for some of the odd angles. 118
hurricane clips total!
Rick
says he was ‘all over’ today! Initially helped get the trusses
up, and then worked on porch base plates, blocking, etc. Prudence
and her son Jordan worked most of the day and it was fun getting to
know them. For the last half hour Gae and I checked both bottom
floors for shiners and took care of them. Can’t do anything about
the second floor (which has some horrible strips of shiners!) until
the scaffolding goes up.
We
clean up around 2:15 and are back at camp by 2:45. Short 45 minute
meeting. I went back around 4:45 to fold strips on the table in
expectation of Happy Hour, but only Ginny and Michael came over. We
had a good visit and I got a whole batch of strips ready to curl!
Baked
potatoes for dinner with salsa! And...it appears Rick’s fix on the
water hose has worked!
FRIDAY,
September 1
CAV
Build Day 5
We
heard the sandhill cranes
again this morning! AND the sun was a solid red ball – hard to see
through the trees, however!
Rick
the Volunteer is back again today to make sure we are on task….and
to answer questions! And the variety achieved today is vast!! Porch
pillars are raised, porch beams are constructed in sandwich style (2
2x8’s with a layer of OSB in the middle) and installed. Sheathing
work continues and a few more hurricane clips added to my total! A
good day overall, but it got hot!! No clouds in the sky today to
hide the sun!
Lazy
afternoon after our brief meeting. Nice to know we have a few days
off. I think all we have
planned tomorrow is laundry, breakfast out, shopping, and Rick is
watching football!
SATURDAY,
September 2
Day
Off
And boy howdy (to quote friend
Rusty!) was it a day off! A leisurely morning, then a trip into
‘town’! Frontier Pies Cafe for breakfast (we got the buffet) and
then two doors down was Magic Suds laundromat. Not the cheapest
we’ve found, but clean and quick. Two loads done before noon. We
cruised down the main drag towards Walmart, stopped at a Dollar Tree
for a few purchases (including a new coffee cup for me since mine has
never shown up since I left it at the job site on Monday!) Back to
the trailer by 1. Rick spent the afternoon watching football games
and taking a walk. I went to McDonalds for a little wifi time (over
two hours) and took a short walk around the park afterwards. Nothing
more, nothing less!
Sunday,
September 3
Teton
Scenic Byway Loop-Grand Targhee
What a beautiful day! We left
Sheffield shortly before 8, stopped for gas and coffees, and then
headed up Highway 33 toward Sugar City, Tetonia, and eventually
Driggs. Rolling potato farms and wheat fields. It is not a perfect
day to head up to Targhee, but we are going anyway. Smoke has filled
the valley again – fires in Missoula, fires in Salmon, and nearly
50 fires in Oregon all blowing in this direction. Awful!
Rick reminisces from Driggs on up
the road to Targhee. It has been 40 years since his days in
Pocatello, and adventures skiing at Grand Targhee. SOOO much
development up and down the valley since then. Labor Day weekend and
we find the Rendezvous Bike Festival in full activity when we arrive
– all sorts of RV’s in a mock campground, bikers everywhere!
But...we purchase our $15 Scenic Lift ticket and ride to the top of
the mountain (Fred’s Peak) at 9762’. From there we can follow
hiker only trails along the summit ridges.
We take the Marmot Trail along the
ridge crest. The Tetons are silhouette shadows with the morning sun
behind them, but the peaks are very clearly defined in the distance.
The dropoff on the north side of the ski area is severe. We can hear
the squealing of bike tires below us, thankful that this isn’t a
shared trail!
We hike up to Mary’s Saddle, and
then follow the trail around the east flank of the peak, thinking it
will go to the top eventually. We are fooled, but grateful when we
get to the other side of the peak and see the shear wall of lava rock
that forms it’s north side! Instead the trail continued on up an
old uplifted lava flow to what our waitress later told us was
Steve-Bob – a rocky prominence that overlooked a vast barren
glacial plain. We could see evidence of some mini lava tubes that
had collapsed as we hiked up to the end of Steve-Bob.
After a large group of young people
left, another couple around our age got to the top and we visited
with them for nearly 45 minutes. Mark and Karen, who live in an
apartment in the plane hanger down in Driggs. Moved out from
Virginia a year or so ago.
Wildflowers were abundant, but most
in the final stages of life as autumn rolls in. The wild geraniums
were a beautiful red tint leaves, asters, etc. Rick was thrilled to
find a few gentians and I even found one clump of Rocky Mt. Blue
columbine, altho the blue had mostly faded out. LOTS of butterflies,
grasshoppers, and ladybugs, especially near the summits.
The Tetons are incredibly close
here. As the day progressed, more and more of the snowfields and
shadows of the peaks because visible, but likewise the smoke seemed
to increase as the day advanced as well. A no win situation!
We hiked back down and rather than
taking the Marmot trail back up along the ridge top, we opted for the
service road that would take us back up to the lift. The day was
quite warm for that ¾ of a mile of dusty road! We stopped at the
Observation Deck to check out some information plagues there, and
ended up visiting with a PT who had just hiked up from the bottom of
the mountain! By the time we got back to the lift to ride down, we
had pretty well scrubbed a visit to Jackson from our itinerary for
the day!
We shared a Ciabatta chicken
sandwich at the Trap Bar restaurant down in Targhee Village and were
ready to head back down around 3pm! Completed our loop for the day
with the drive to Victor and then over Pine Creek Pass on Hwy 31 to
Swan Valley. US 26 to Ryrie, and then backroads with my phone to get
us back to Thornton and our campground. LOTS of wheat fields between
Swan Valley and Ryrie, plus we met up with the Snake River several
times.
Quiet evening. Oh, and the trailer
was an even 100 degrees when we returned today. Thank goodness for
the air conditioner!
MONDAY,
September 4 – LABOR DAY
Mesa Falls – Nez Perce Historic
Trail
Ashton, ID
After a very lazy morning, we left
at 11am heading north toward Ashton and a visit to Mesa Falls on
Henry’s Fork of the Snake River. I knew not what to expect,
although we saw something on the news last night with a video of the
falls – and plenty of water roaring through!
Highway 20 is a four lane freeway
until about 5 miles from Ashton, where it narrows to its original two
lane access into West Yellowstone and the national park. Ashton is a
town built on the fertility of the wheat and potato fields
surrounding it. We headed east from there and then wound north into
a narrow canyon, rimmed with basalt on one side and rhyolite
tuffstone on the other. There are two sections of falls – Lower
and Upper (appropriately named!) You can only view the Lower from a
distance as access is so poor. But the Upper Falls area is well
developed with a Visitor Center, fee access (due to the National
Historic Trail designation), and plenty of trails to follow. I used
our Senior Pass – once again the best buy in the world!
The boardwalk path for the Upper
Falls visits several platforms with various views of this, the
highest of Idaho’s waterfalls. Shoshone Falls is more massive, but
this is higher. The falls slants away so until the final platform
you don’t really get even a ¾ view of the dropoff. But there is a
rainbow visible and PLENTY of water! Fireweed is puffy white with
seed hairs everywhere. Lots of berries, none of them edible!
The Visitor Center focuses on birds
of Henry’s Lake and the wildlife in the area – lots of tracks,
pelts, etc. Also the history of Chief Joseph and his flight to
Canada, which was through this area. Picked up a few postcards, but
couldn’t get a pin. :(
I drove us back down to Rexburg and
our planned visit to Walmart for some groceries. Tonight we are
having a CAV potluck and I needed to be prepared. I am taking my
pickled asparagus horse-overs and cut pineapple. Rick picked up a
sweet potato pie to try!
Just before our potluck a huge 5th
Wheel RV pulls into the pass-through space next to us. Truck AND car
with it. We feel just a little boxed in – with their slide-outs
and Mike and Judy’s car dolly, there is only about 20” to walk
between to get to our trailer! Oh well.
Fun time with the potluck – this
is a very congenial group! Meatballs, beans, potatoes, apple crisp,
plus my offerings. I am stuffed!
I took pictures tonight of an orange
sun setting in the west, and just saw an orange moon rising in the
east. The smoke is terrible!
BTW….Rick founds my coffee cup in
the back of the truck and tonight I found his neck lamp buried under
his seat in the trailer! Rick wondered if we would spend our old age
finding things for each other!
TUESDAY,
September 5
CAV
BUILD Day 6
A solid red sun this morning and
MUCH cooler weather! Reprieve for the day! (Although eventually the
sun did heat up the day – but only 92 in the trailer when we got
home this afternoon!)
It took a little while to get
everyone started today, but once we did, we got quite a lot
accomplished. Rick worked on the west porch trusses all day,
installing the truss, plumbing it, and put in hurricane clips to
anchor it. I worked with Ginny and Michael on the sheathing of the
back of the west garage. By day’s end, we made it! It involved a
lot of extension ladder work, nail guns, and some OSB cuts. At the
end of the day I had a small project to fill a gap with OSB that
involved climbing on the garage trusses and nailing into the width of
OSB. Did it!
We met at 6pm tonight to complete
our Safety Training course with Mike. All 6 of us finished the 4
hour course, which pleased our team leader Bill immensely! We got
bright yellow Safety Helmet hardhats as our prize.
A rough day….from Sunday’s
discovery of Travis Talbott’s death, to Hurricane Harvey and now
Irma, to DACA news from Trump, wildfires throughout the west and the
Columbia Gorge in flames to the final blow – a text from Annalea
and phone call from Luke that Jodie Averett was killed yesterday when
kicked in the chest by a cow. I talked with Annalea as well after
the call with Luke. So much to grieve today.
WEDNESDAY,
September 6
CAV
Build Day 7
Forty-eight degrees in the trailer
this morning and up to 90 this afternoon! I actually had on my
sweatshirt for awhile this morning! But when it warmed up, IT WARMED
UP!!! Sun was again an orange ball in the east – we have air
quality advisories in affect until late Thursday when hopefully some
winds will come and start blowing the smoke away. Apparently it is a
mess in Portland with a fire, started by kids throwing fire crackers,
in the Columbia Gorge threatening Multnomah Falls Lodge, Crown Point,
etc.
But we are building here! Rick
spends the day again working closely with Steve on the front porch
lookouts, sheathing the porch roofs, etc. Hot time in the sunshine!
We moved scaffolding around a couple times to help them out. Mike H
worked on the ground for them as a cutter.
I teamed up with Michael (we lost
our cutter Ginny to another crew) and we finished up all the
sheathing on the walls, backing for the last six earthquake brackets
on the foundation, helped move trusses up to the second floor, and
then upstairs to install some ceiling anchors for the sheetrock.
Prudence showed up today and worked
with various teams, plus we firmed up a tie dye party after work
today. So….back at the trailer park, a quick meeting, and then we
are setting up for tie dye on the picnic tables. Ginny, Judy, and
Gae all dyed articles and we were just cleaning everything up when
Prudence arrived at 5:15!! She had four of her five kids with her!
So, we reset and got everything tie dyed with them! I was finally
done at 6:30pm!! Whew! We have a bucket of items to wash out
tomorrow!
I’m tired and ready for bed! The
‘boys’ all went out for drinks and appetizer dinner tonight.
Rick said it was a lot of fun and good conversations.
Thursday,
September 7
CAV
Build Day 8
Another busy day! Cool in the
morning and heating up by afternoon, but not as bad as it has been.
The smoke is still rather heavy – fires burning in Idaho, SW
Montana, not to mention the entire west side of Oregon.
Prudence brings the son of a friend
with her today – they do a lot of clean up in the upstairs areas
where we have been preparing for sheetrock, etc. I spent the morning
in the east house installing nailer strips on top of the walls.
Managed to whack the hammer on my healing thumb at one point, but
Judy got me some ice and it isn’t too bad this evening.
Rick worked with Steve sheathing the
roof of the east garage in prep for putting up the trusses on that
part. After lunch Rick took a crew with him to install trusses over
the east porch, while Prudence, Caleb and I went up to help Steve
finish with the garage trusses. Step by step the end of the day
pictures show progress!
Prudence extended her heartfelt
thanks to all the crew as she wouldn’t be back (has to work the
weekend) before they all leave on Sunday. I told her I would see her
next week! We haven’t seen Nori and Shelby all week, but heard
that Shelby was having medical problems. Hope all is well for him.
He needs heart surgery, but waiting for the VA hospital to schedule.
Back to rinse out all the tie dye,
and then wait for a washing machine to become available. In the
meantime we had our ‘house tours’ of everyone’s RV! (It was
Judy’s idea!) Kinda fun. We have an example of everything – 12’
mini trailer to our 18’ hybrid, to a class A motorhome, a class C
motorhome, and a 5th Wheel. Mike Humes 5th
Wheel is probably the most spacious and luxurious!
Tie dye came out great –
especially Ginny’s baby blanket. So pretty! I got into quite a
discussion with one of the park permanent residents while picking up
the goods from the dryer. She wants to learn to tie dye AND they had
lots of questions about Habitat. Spreading the word is part of our
job!
I had devotions this morning and
used one from my book, which was a good lead-in to a little
promotion. I think I might sell a few! Judy was previewing them!
Muscles are feeling a little sore!
FRIDAY,
September 8
CAV
Build Day 9
Whew! We are starting to run out of
steam! I work with Steve all day today – the east side garage
trusses that form a decorative hip above the garage. We got the
trusses installed and sheathed, plus the trim on the eaves put up.
Mike H was our cutter on the ground floor. I just tried my best to
anticipate what Steve was trying to do and hand his the right tools,
with the right nails, etc.
Rick and Mike P worked on the east
side porch trusses, having to MAKE two additional trusses as well.
They also ended up moving scaffolding around and eventually got most
of the roof of the porch sheathed. Tomorrow we move more scaffolding
and work the last gable peak above the east pop out.
The rest of the group was inside
building boxes for attic crawl spaces?? I didn’t get a real good
description of their project, but told them I would be inspecting
tomorrow!
We all gather at 5:30 at Fresco
Kitchen and Grill – just a few miles north on Old Yellowstone
Highway. Its a good thing we met early, as by the time we left on a
Friday night the place was overflowing with people waiting
everywhere. Part of that could be due to the arrival this weekend of
the BYU-Idaho students!! Rick and I had a great time visiting with
Ginny and Michael who sat opposite us. We shared a BBQ Chicken
Sandwich and Artichoke Dip appetizer, plus a glass of wine. Good
times.
There are clouds in the sky and rain
is falling somewhere in Idaho. We even saw Flash Flood warnings for
SW Baker County – heavy rain!! Please, God, put out some of these
fires!!
Saturday,
September 9
CAV
Build Final Day 10
Surprise!
The sunrise today looked
almost ‘normal’ - no red glow, just beautiful clouds and color!
We started out today with important
stuff – our group picture!! Steve took a few and then Rick went to
ask the neighbor if she would take a couple of everyone, including
Steve! Then it was time to get to work, especially since it is just
a half day today!
Rick and Mike P finish up their work
on the porch and then get scaffolding moved so they can do the wrap
around part of the gable that Steve and I are tackling. Sadly
enough, I’m not totally sure what everyone else worked on!! Mike H
continued to cut for us and after awhile Michael came out to lend a
hand hoisting the OSB up. Shortly after noon we had finished what we
set out to do today! The gables and porches are all ready with eaves
and sheathing!
Back to the campground and lunch,
then Rick and I take off for Magic Suds and two loads of laundry! I
am able to get online briefly there, but can’t upload any pictures.
We meet Mike and Judy leaving as we come into the park – Judy has
brought back fresh peaches for everyone. SOOOOO good!
Warm day and we hide in the trailer
for awhile, grabbing some dinner. By evening, Gae comes to our door
with the peaches and I see Ginny and Michael out at the firepit. We
join them for awhile, eventually everyone gathers there. Some final
goodbyes around 8pm. Most are leaving tomorrow early morning.
Karl and Kendra got back to us and
they aren’t available tomorrow for a lunch date, so Rick and I have
no schedule to maintain, other than to be back at the park by 5p for
our initial build meeting. We have some questions for Karen, the
affiliate director, so we’ll be sure to be here!
 |
| A final composite collage of the Rexburg CAV Build. A great group! |
SUNDAY,
September 10
Day
Off!
My subtitle above sums it up! When
we couldn’t make connections with Karl and Kendra, knowing we were
back at work on Monday, we decided to go no where today and just
plain relax!! We did some grocery shopping (the aisles and shelves
at WalMart were bare due to the influx of BYU-I students this
weekend. Rick watched football and I spent three hours at McDonalds
on the internet!
Our new building partners pulled in
during the afternoon. Team Leaders Jeff and Laura have been up in
the Flathead Valley all summer, hosting at the KOA campground just
south of Whitefish. They worked on the Ashley house off and on when
they could. Paul and Meg are from Sacramento and relatively new to
CAVs. They arrived in the SMALLEST RV (short of a tent) we have ever
seen – one of the little teardrop trailers that is bed only with
the kitchen in the rear that opens to the outside. Wow! Rick just
said, ‘I’m not tough enough for that’!!
Good meeting with Karen, the
affiliate ED, which lasted almost two hours because we just sat and
chatted. Karen seemed much more comfortable this time around.
MONDAY,
September 11
CAV
Build Day 11
Here we go again….same place, new
co-workers!! It takes a little while to get started as Rick and I
show Laura and Jeff where the keys are, etc. Steve arrives a little
earlier than normal, and we are pleased to see the return of both
Dave and Rick, locals we didn’t see last week. Nori and Jordan
also were on site today.
At times today there wasn’t enough
work for all, as Steve was focused on the roof and getting the
outlooks and fascia done so we could sheath. Meg and Nori made mitre
saw cuts, Jordan toted a lot of lumber here and there. We all moved
scaffolding. Jeff and Rick sheathed the back of the garage before
break! Once again, Steve grabbed me as his ‘helper’ and I ended
up on the upper trusses of the Smith house putting in the 22”
braces for the fascia. Local Rick came up to help me – I wasn’t
tall enough and it takes one to hold and one to fire the gun,
especially in that awkward spot. (OK, Steve does it alone, but I
couldn’t!) The goal today was to prepare the Smith house so we can
sheath the upper roof, except for the back hip section, while Steve,
Dave, and Rick attend the mandatory safety seminar on Tuesday.
We worked until 3:15 – no one
really paying much attention to how long we were ‘at it’! Clean
up and then some ‘down time’ in the shade before we left,
discussing our approach for tomorrow.
Showers, rest, and a short Happy
Hour out by Walkers trailer getting to know one another. I have Nori
coming for a tie dye party tomorrow afternoon, plus I went down and
gave the information to the lady in the trailer next to the
restrooms. (I don’t even know her name yet!) Hopefully enough dye
left!
TUESDAY,
September 12
CAV
Build Day 12
A full day, even if we were only a
crew of 5! Laura decided to go to the safety training in Idaho
Falls, so Jeff rode with us to the job site. Nori joined us around
9, but that was it! The three guys spent the day ‘UP TOP’ while
we three gals manned the saw station below, used the ladder lift to
raise the OSB to the porch roof, and built Toe Plates for the guys to
install at the edge of the roof – a safety measure. Meg and Nori
also finished up the upper door sill in the garage – a job Meg
started yesterday with Dave.Steve, Dave, and Rick were all at the safety seminar as well, so we did our best to be on good behavior today. Rick and Jeff shot hundreds of sheathing bullets today. Paul lifted a lot of OSB!! He should be sore tonight.
Overall, we got all the south side
of Prudence’s roof sheathed, part of the north side, and the fascia
finished on the north. We couldn’t go any further at that point
without a little direction from Steve.
I cut a lot of sheathing today, plus
taught Meg how to use the nail gun and Nori made her first cut with a
circular saw (fortunately an easy cut and with the portable little
saw!) But she was very proud of herself.
Back to the park around 3 and ready
to prepare for our tie dye party!! Laura dyes a couple of items, Meg
one shirt, and then Nori shows up with her daughter Jennifer and five
grandchildren! Great kids and we had a fun time. AND I didn’t run
out of dye!! Hopefully we’ll find things wash out ok tomorrow!
The gal in the park who wanted to dye never showed up. :(
A quick thunderstorm went through
around 7 and then sunshine again. Cooling off. Tomorrow could be
rain later in the day and barely hit 80 degrees. Hurray!
WEDNESDAY,
September 13
CAV
Build Day 13
Our second day ‘on our own’! We
hope to work until noon at least, praying the forecasted storms hold
off! The safety class should be done around noon and maybe Steve
will show up and give a little direction.
In the meantime, Paul, Meg, and I
work on the 8” OSB sections that go above the sheathing – to
prevent the insulation from popping out. Meg and I are able to do
the part on the gable of Prudence’s house, but we can’t reach
from the porch roof. Paul gets that part! Jeff and Rick tackle the
fascia on the back, and we move more scaffolding (with only four
sections it is a never ending process!) I build another toe plate
and help deliver boards. Meg and I spend the latter portion of the
day cutting OSB for Rick and Jeff who continue the sheathing then on
the back side of the house.
Steve didn’t make it in the
afternoon, but Dave showed up, fresh with SAFETY ideas! We put up
handrails in the stairway, and for Rick and Paul to build the last
corner ‘bird box’ on the fascia, they had to span a scaffold
riser between two anchored 2x4’s, and then harness up to reach the
corner. Dave was excited to try out his newly learned skills!
Back to the campground to relax abit
and then help Laura and Meg wash out their tie dye handiwork! Laura
had made a crockpot shepherd’s pie for everyone to share at
dinnertime. We brought over a loaf of kale bread. A most pleasant
evening as we sat around and visited until 8pm.
THURSDAY,
September 14
CAV
Build Day 14
The forecast is NOT good for today,
but we are going in to meet Steve and hope we might get a morning in.
Thunderstorms forecast – not what you want for roof work!
The project for today is the back
hip section of Prudence’s house – our last remaining challenge!
We move the scaffolding again so the gables eaves can be built, and
then Steve and Jeff set the hip trusses. I go up to hold the level
for abit in that process. Rick is finishing fascia and more OSB goes
into place.
Thunderstorms interrupt us twice,
but it isn’t until 1:30 when the storm passes right over us and
more rain falls that we call it quits – the roof is too wet to be
safe! I did a lot of running around today, making cuts, helping with
scaffold, making deliveries! Prudence came by just as we were
getting ready to leave and we visited with her for awhile. She will
be coming in to work tomorrow and we will finish roofing HER side of
the complex then!!!
Heavy rainfall for awhile before we head to Applebees - more storms on the way!
Heavy rainfall for awhile before we head to Applebees - more storms on the way!
A few hours to relax and then Happy
Hour at Applebee’s on the schedule for this evening! I also have
a conference call with the Program/Mission Committee to review grant
applications, but not until 8pm and I’ll do it at McDonalds so I
have internet for all the materials.
FRIDAY,
September 15
CAV
Build Day 15….nope.
Raindrops are falling on our heads!
It rained last night solid from the time we got back from MacDonalds
(I came back before my call and sat in the truck talking!) until
early morning, paused for a few hours, and then started in again. We
cancelled – the roof will be WAY too wet to be safe. Day off!
Walkers and Hoyles headed into town
in search of breakfast. We were so excited about Frescos, but they
discovered it didn’t open until 11 on weekdays! Wow! Rick and I
kicked back and relaxed for abit. A trip to Magic Suds for laundry
and Dollar Tree, back to trailer for lunch – Rick had a hankering
for spaghetti and we had bought some pasta and sauce at Dollar Tree.
We then tried to go to the Teton Flood Museum, only to discover it
closed at 2pm. So we went to Deseret Thrift Store and picked up
some shirts, jeans, and lots of books!
We pulled out the heater today. The
forecast for tonight is high 30’s. Since we washed our sheets this
morning and I had the bed all pulled apart anyway, I put up my ‘heat
shield’ along the back wall of the bed. Time for the Fall weather!
After dinner I asked Laura if she
wanted to make some Christmas ornaments and I took my bin of rolled
magazine paper crafts and we made doves. I had worked on a star and
dove earlier in the day, plus got a snowman or two made. Meg and
Paul came over as well and we ate popcorn, drank wine, and visited
for over two hours. A nice evening.
SATURDAY,
September 16
Teton
Flood Museum….and not much else!
Temperatures are cooling down! It
was 38 outside when I got up around 7 (yes, a cozy sleep in day!) but
52 in the trailer since we had the heater going during the night.
Not bad at all!
The group is having a final meal
together this morning at Frescos – meeting at 9. We sit and chat
for two hours!! Laura and Jeff then left for Craters of the Moon,
Meg and Paul for Jackson. We went to the Flood Museum!!
A good 25 minute movie of the stages
of the Teton flood – the photography wasn’t great and the
resolution of many pictures poor, but it wasn’t hard to see the
devastation on the farming communities the breach in the dam wrought.
The flood happened on Rick’s birthday in 1976 while he was living
in Pocatello. Pokie wasn’t affected for the most part, but every
town up river was! Besides the loss of homes and businesses, the
waters scraped the top soil away from fertile agricultural lands,
rendering them useless. It seems much of the area has rebounded in
the succeeding 50 years, since we saw acres upon acres of wheat,
sugar beets, and POTATOES!!
Over to WalMart for a few groceries
and then back for a nap! Later in the afternoon Rick took a walk and
I called Cherrie while walking the park. A thorough cleaning of the
trailer took place. We spent the evening closing up the front end,
draining the tanks, and putting away the water hoses. Easier tonight
than in the cold of the morning! All that’s left is our bed and
the electric. We can be out of here FAST if we wanted to be!
A few goodbye conversations before
heading in for the night. Tomorrow we hit the road again with an
open schedule! No firm reservations, just a general direction with a
few target locations to set up camp and explore!
SUNDAY,
September 17
Rexburg,
ID to Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, MT
173
miles
What a GORGEOUS drive today!! Blue
skies, fluffy clouds, and mountains with fresh snow in all
directions!! Plus it was new highway for the most part for each of
us.
We left around 8:15 with hugs all
around (although Laura was still in bed, but we got her last night!)
Jeff was still in his pjs, but came out to say goodbye. I do hope we
meet up with them again sometime on the CAV trail.
Coffees at Maverik (they raised
their prices, however, so refills are now $1.29!! PLUS tax!) and then
on up the road toward Ashton, Island City, and Henry’s Lake and the
Montana border.
New experience!! Just before the
road narrows from 4 lane to 2 lane 5 miles from Ashton, we were
stopped by a police vehicle blocking the road with lights flashing.
Same thing on the other side. We soon observed that a MAJOR sheep
crossing was about to take place! Must have been 700-1000 sheep in
the flock and they weren’t very happy about crossing the highway at
first. The mass of wool just keep coming and coming until we saw
three border collies and a couple of guys on horseback trying their
best to get them across the road. Quite the sight!
I sent a text to Diane and Tom as we
neared Ashton. The storm clouds have lifted and the smoke dissipated
and I can finally see the amazing view of the Teton peaks towering on
the eastern skyline. The view from the Ashton RV Park would be a
gorgeous as Diane described it!
Stopped in Island City for gas,
choking at the price ($3.09) but the climb and a headwind meant we
wanted to be sure to run on the top of the tank. Island City is
where the Speelmans have their cabin that Conks have borrowed a few
times. (We found out the exact location AFTER we were through the
area!)
Broad plateaus and snowy peaks from
Island City to Henry’s Lake. The rain and snow from Thursday to
Saturday have dusted the mountaintops down to around the 6500’
level. No snow on the highway, but roadside in places. It is so
beautiful! We cross over the Continental Divide and into Montana at
Raynolds Pass (6800’). Shortly after we meet up with the Madison
River which is our companion for the next 60 or so miles. We have
traveled all three rivers feeding out of the West Yellowstone –
Yellowstone area now. The Yellowstone River from the north entrance
to the Livingston, the Gallatin from West Yellowstone, and now the
Madison. Both the Madison and Gallatin, along with the Jefferson
(which we are currently camped next to) all form the Missouri River
at Three Forks, just east of us.
Enjoyed the charm of Ennis, MT, and
the magnificent vistas of vast ranches, wheat fields, cattle grazing,
and always, the mountains. We left US 287 to turn west on Montana 2
to find Lewis and Clark Caverns.
We are able to secure an electric
site for the next three days ($34 for tonight as it is still peak
season, and then $30 night for the next two). I take care of the fee
arrangements at the Visitor Center while Rick fills the trailer water
tank (important since we discovered the showers are $3 for 6
minutes!) We haven’t really used the water pump and water tank in
the trailer before. This will be a good test. We have 30 gallons of
water – that should be able to last us for 6 quick showers over the
next three days.
We decide to wait and take the
cavern tours on a less than ideal day (most likely Tuesday when rain
is forecast), so we take a two plus mile hike around the foothills
below the caverns during the afternoon. We lost the trail at one
point, but managed to get back on prior to arrival back at the camp.
We passed an old gypsum mine (used to make talc) and had several good
views back up the valley with the Jefferson River, snow on the north
side of the mountains, and the Bridger Mts east of Belgrade in the
far distance.
Dinner (we finally ate up the
leftover turkey soup from Christmas Eve) and then a relaxing evening
reading all the material we picked up at the Visitor Center. We
contacted Linda Thoth and have David’s cell number in case we have
an opportunity tomorrow to contact him for perhaps a meal out.
The day was beautifully sunny and
warm, but not hot, but it is cooling down quickly now. Forecast is
for 31 tonight! That’s why we needed electricity – the heater
will be running!
MONDAY,
September 18
Exploring
Butte, MT – Mining Capital of Montana
We stayed warm last night with our
little heater putting out the warm air. But it also didn’t get
down to the forecast of 31 either, I suspect. By 8:15 we are ready
to hit the road and head toward Butte.
We wind for four miles or so through
Jefferson Canyon, a narrow gap in the strata walls of limestone and
older rock, the river and railroad our companions.
As soon as we are on the freeway and
I have some cell reception, I send David Toth a text and invite him
to lunch or dinner, depending on his schedule. (We are secretly
hoping for lunch!)
First stop is the Office for the
Lady of the Rockies tours. Our decision on whether to invest in the
two hour trip is made for us – too much snow at the top of the
divide and they aren’t making trips this week. We put around the
gift shop and then discover a movie on the construction of the statue
is playing. We slip into the back to watch the rest.
The statue was one man’s dream to
originally place a 5’ statue of Mary, as a symbol of all mothers,
in his yard when his wife passed away from cancer. But Butte in the
early 1980’s was suffering from economic depression – mines had
closed and people were out of hope and out of work. One man’s
dream became a rallying call of hope for the whole community. The
effort took nearly 6 years, but in December 1985, the 5 pieces of the
steel statue were flown by helicopter to the top of the Continental
Divide overlooking the town of Butte and anchored in place. It is
lit at night. I found the story behind the statue moving – the
views today aren’t great with a white statue and a steel gray sky!
But we can see it from town!
While at the statue visitor center,
we get a reply from David. Yes for lunch! We eventually arrange to
meet at the Metals Bar and Grill in uptown (the historic district) at
noon. In the meantime we drive around town and see the Open Pit
Copper Mine – a nice viewing area allows you to see INTO the pit –
which now holds an acid lake. Pretty interesting.
We drive up and around Montana
Institute of Technology where David attends school off and on (he is
on the 10 year plan according to Linda) and then park and walk the
historic blocks, noting buildings, churches, and lots of history.
Lively lunch with David – he is
very talkative. Reminded us both so much of his father, Steve!
(Including his lion’s mane of blond curly hair!) Glad we made the
effort and David’s work schedule allowed for it.
A quick stop at the mall for some
shopping, then to Walmart for a few groceries. We decided to take an
alternate route home by following Montana 2 the whole way rather than
getting back on to I-90. It takes us up and over the Continental
Divide at Pipestone Pass, 75’ higher than the I-90 pass. But the
top is unmarked and we are up and over before we know it! A fun
route home through Whitehall and the small towns along the way.
Just before we get back to the
caverns, we spy a huge gaping hole in the hillside above us, facing
west so I didn’t see it this morning. ???? I walk over to the
visitor center upon our return to ask and discover it is an old
limestone quarry.
The wind is picking up and the storm
is coming. RAIN!! I write as the water streams down the trailer
windows. We are hunkered inside for the rest of the day!!
TUESDAY,
September 19
Lewis
and Clark Caverns Tour
After a few good storms with wind
and rain, we awake to a morning of calm and sunshine! It is
beautiful outside! Shortly after 9 we are ready to head up the
mountain for our tour. We want to be sure to go while the walking
will be dry – more rain is forecast for later in the day.
We just miss a 9:30 tour and the
next isn’t until 10:30, but that’s ok, because it was a big
group. We poke around the gift shop for a little while and then get
our jackets ready and head over to the tour gate. End up with a
group of 5 – PERFECT! Our tour guide is Tom who has been giving
tours here for 10 years. He is a storyteller and gives a great deal
of background on bats, Lewis and Clark, the CCC -you name it. For
those unfamiliar with some of this information, it was great and we
had a father and son from Germany in our group. Tom did get a little
long winded at times though! Our 2 hour tour lasted 2 ½ and we were
hungry when we got back to the truck!!
The Caverns were so different from
both Carlsbad and Mammoth. Smaller in scale, but much more intimate.
We wound in and around columns and formations. So far they are not
having any bat white nose syndrome problems, but are being careful.
All the bats were gone, however – it is mating season! We
descended down about 500 steps and up 100. The exit tunnel is about
50’ below the entrance. A ¾ mile hike to the entrance and a ½
mile hike back – both mostly on the contour of Cave Mountain. We
bought a few souvenirs on the way out and headed back down the
mountain to get something to eat!!
By mid-afternoon, the rains had
returned – we spent a lazy afternoon. I took a mile walk around
the campground while Rick cooked dinner. We might have snow again on
the peaks in the morning!
WEDNESDAY,
September 20
Three
Forks – Library Wifi!!
 |
| Heading over to Three Forks from the Caverns - Bridger Mts. |
Not much action today, but very
productive! Around 10 we paid for another night here at the Caverns
and drove into Three Forks, about 20 miles east, to find the public
library and some free wifi. We had some planning to do, contacts to
make, pictures and posts. By 1pm I had posted to both blogs, updated
Facebook, checked emails, etc. Rick had his Kindle and researched
weather and RV parks for the immediate future. We made a decision on
Kalispell and contacted Steve.
We found the librarian very helpful.
She directed us to the ‘meeting room’ so we had tables and
privacy. She told us where the post office was (I mailed 16
postcards!) and recommended the cafes on Main Street for lunch. We
went to the Three Forks Cafe and had grilled chicken sandwiches.
Basic good food. I enjoyed some broccoli cheese soup with mine!
Back to the library and Rick called his Mom and Rusty. I called some
RV parks. I sent birthday ecards. We heard back from Steve –
affirmative, COME! We left feeling like we had a plan, which is
always a good idea!
Quick stop at the Three Forks Market
– I wanted some more hummus and didn’t bring my dry mix (sad
face!) Really sad cause I had to buy Sabra brand, which I am trying
to boycott, but its all they had.
Back to trailer to get a quick walk
in between rain storms. Evening in trailer.
PS. The weather is supposed to be
rocking COLD Saturday and Sunday. We had to find reasonable rates
that included electricity. We also have purchased a backup heater,
since this one has been doing duty for 5 years now. I didn’t want
it to crash when it is 18 degrees outside! Weather should be warming
up to typical Indian summer by next week. Nothing like camping at
5500’ near the Continental Divide when it turns frigid!!
THURSDAY,
September 21
Lewis
and Clark Caverns to Phillipsburg, MT
100
miles
Time to hit the road again! We pack
up, drain the tanks, thankful for this chance to use the water tank,
water pump, etc. It worked well to give us a few hot showers, altho
we discovered the wind had blown out the water heater prior to our
showers and I was the second in line. Needless to say, it was a
rather brief shower! But we tested the stove to make sure we still
had propane which was affirmative!
We pull off in Butte to find a
propane refill – successful for a reasonable price. We were only a
half empty! Gas fill up, coffee fill up, and we are on our way.
Blue skies to the west and snow white mountains! Beautiful!
Ananconda is a much bigger town than
we expected – just a few hundred under Baker City. The smelter
smoke stack TOWERS above the city on a hill, with the Continental
Divide Mountains just behind it. The ore from Butte was often
smelted in Anaconda. A LONG Main Street drive with old buildings,
houses just three feet apart, but plenty of amenities. I checked the
map and found that Philipsburg is only 900 people! The two towns are
definitely NOT the same size! We decided to come back on another
day to explore Anaconda, as we didn’t want to drag the trailer
everywhere.
On up a canyon paralleling the
divide and up to Georgetown Lake and dam. Pines, firs, rocky
outcroppings and white peaks. The road dropping down from the dam
was an engineering nightmare and is still being worked on. A narrow
canyon that eventually opens out into a wide valley and Flint Creek
which feeds into the Clark Fork near I-90. We find a ski area with
runs already outlined with white streaks.
Into Philipsburg and through town to
find our Inn RV Park on the north side. We pay for two nights, and
figure we’ll decide on the rest later. Tonight and tomorrow are
supposed to be the worst weather wise, with snow in the forecast. We
think we’ll wait for Anaconda until Saturday and just sit tight and
visit the shops in Pburg tomorrow.
After lunch a drive and walk through
downtown. This town was just about dead in the late 80’s with
buildings collapsing, unheated, and falling apart. Then one by one,
visionaries bought a building and starting painting and remodeling.
Step by step the momentum gained and Philipsburg was rebuilt as a
tourist mining history center. The nearby ski area helps in the
winter.
Went into a pottery store and found
some great ideas, but I bought a Santa figurine. Will try to make my
own at some point.
Late afternoon and evening spent
reading, TV (two stations!), etc. We will try to stay warm
tonight….the heater is holding the trailer at 62 at the moment. My
hope is to keep it warm in the evening so it doesn’t drop TOO far
during the night!
FRIDAY,
September 22
Exploring
Philipsburg
We wake up to
SNOW!! Temp is right around 30, the trailer is 47 when I get up at
6:30. Brisk! I bundle up with two blankets and my gloves and
sweatshirt, a hot cup of coffee by my side. The snow probably only
started a couple hours ago – it is a light dusting.
We linger
reading, etc (I draw two more Picasso Prayers) until 9:30 and then
head over to the Sunshine Cafe, about ¼ mile away for breakfast. We
were going to walk, but the north wind was blowing just hard enough,
with blowing snow, that it didn’t sound like fun. I’m a wimp.
Good basic
food, plus coffee for under 1.30. Gotta like a country diner. I
order french toast and ham for something different from my usual
breakfast egg wrap. A huge slice of ham! While eating breakfast,
Cherrie texts me back that Josie Skidgel lives in Philipsburg. I
remember Josie from the middle school. I finally ask our waitress if
she knows Josie when we are about ready to leave. She laughs and
said, “Josie is back in the kitchen, saying ‘I think my middle
school art teacher is out there. Either that or her twin!’”
Josie comes out, we hug, and chat for a little bit. It’s a small
world!!
We drive on
in to town to do a little shopping, wandering up and down Main
Street, entering about 5-6 places. Mostly window shopping, but we
purchase a few gifts and some novelty items. One store had so many
beautiful wood bear pieces I nearly went crazy, but we ended up
buying some wood cattails.
Last stop was
the Sweet Palace, the biggest candy store in Montana, or so they say!
I just wanted a few pieces of hard candy to suck on in the evenings
when my desire for sweet overwhelmed me! Four dollars and a small
bag later, we headed back to the trailer. Rick got the furnace going
to really warm things up. Snow is starting to melt and switch to a
rain-snow mix. Temp has warmed up to 32 degrees by 12:30pm!! It is
NOT going to be hot today!
Furnace
finally working and it is up to 64 inside! Woo hoo! (Since it is
still just 32 and spitting snow outside!) Hour or two spent talking
to Luke on phone and then doing laundry at the bathhouse (one washer,
one dryer and cheap!)
Quiet
afternoon and then a long conversation with Jed until after OUR
bedtime! We hadn’t talked with him since school had started. He
had a lot to share!
We are
keeping the furnace on low tonight. Should help the temps, but will
also keep the little space heater plugging away!
SATURDAY,
September 23
Anaconda, MT
I think it is
going to get above 35 today!! The sun has come out, although there
is still a layer of clouds all around. The furnace did its job last
night – it was 55 today when I got up – about 10 degrees warmer
than yesterday!
We decide to
head over to Anaconda when we see the sun shining and some blue skies
to the south. It is just a 30 mile drive, but over a small pass at
Georgetown Lake. The trees and rocks are beautiful dusted with snow.
Road is clear though! The small elevation gain meant considerably
more snow!
We cruised
around Anaconda, at first looking for the Stack State Park. Not well
signed, but we finally found a viewing area, largely supported in
2000 by the people of Anaconda who wanted the historical structure to
remain. Hundreds of memorial bricks were sold to raise the necessary
funds, many in honor of former smelter workers. Their individual
jobs were marked on the bricks which was interesting. I still want
to know what the rope boys did. Three metal sculptures, from copper,
iron, and ?? portrayed the miners, the smelters, and the railroad
workers that transported the ore between the two. It was well done
and very informative.
Then we
cruised the streets checking out old buildings, steeple chasing,
finally finding the county courthouse at the base of the foothills.
A beautiful old building with a great tower. The Presby church had
the emblem on the sides of the tower, so it was easy to spot! Washoe
Park is on the north side of town and it is beautiful with sports
fields, ponds, walking paths, playgrounds, swimming pool, etc.
Finally we
settle on Subway and find wifi to boot. A match made in heaven! We
spend nearly two hours there enjoying our sandwiches and using the
internet.
On our drive
back to Philipsburg we explore the road toward Ski Discover, only to
find it blocked as we near the ski area. Then off on Georgetown Lake
Road to find the forest service campground on the bay. Only the host
was camped there, but the area with the snow and the thick trees was
very calm and tranquil.
Overall for
our drive? I sum up our sightings as Bighorn Sheep, Bambi, and
Bald Eagles!! Two bighorn females ran across the road as we
neared Anaconda, we saw four deer, and then spotted two bald eagles
in the treetops at Georgetown Lake.
When we got
back to Philipsburg, we walked over to the grocery store for a few
items, and then took a good walk up past the main downtown and
towards the mountains. The road ended at the Philipsburg Brewery,
which was a historic brewery that shut down with Prohibition in 1915.
With many mistrials and alternatives, it finally began brewing beer
again 100 years later!! There are 11 freshwater springs in the area.
Two more deer at the brewery plus some yellow finch. I forgot to
bring my camera on the walk so no pictures. :(
A good day,
but it supposed to completely clear tonight around midnight and drop
down into the 20’s. Furnace time again!!
SUNDAY,
September 24
Exploring
Ghost Towns
I had very
good intentions of going to church this morning, but the cool temps,
my cozy blankets, and the 9am Worship time conspired against me!
Around 11, having spent some good time working on the last scripture
selections for my Psalms Picasso Prayers, Rick suggested that we go
explore some ghost towns. Excellent idea!! To see the towns for
real seemed better than just looking at pictures at the museum, which
had been our plans for the afternoon.
We had some
good directions and information from one of the multiple tourist
brochures we picked up on Philipsburg. So on a beautiful sunshine
morning (still brisk, however!) we head south under the RR overpass
and take off on a dirt road toward Kirkville. I really didn’t know
what to expect, not having a great deal of knowledge about the mining
industry.
Our first
visit is to Kirkville, just a couple miles from downtown Philipsburg.
I will include the description of Kirkville from the brochure:
“Located just southeast of Philipsburg, mill workers of the Bi-Metallic Mill on Douglas Creek settled Kirkville in 1890. It included dwellings, boarding house, rooming house, nearby company residences, an office, a warehouse, a barn, buggy shed, an assay office, a retort building, and the 100 stamp Bi-Metallic Mill site. The mill was over 360 feet long, 150 feet wide, and had two smokestacks, furnaces, chimney flues, and a massive foundation built of cut granite. The owners burned the structure in 1957 for safety reasons. The remains are both interesting and impressive to view. There is a modern flotation mill owned by the Contact Mining Co, which operates from time to time as a processing plant on a contract basis.”
I
was amazed by the size and scope of the ruins. The rockwork was
incredible, with only spots here and there of obvious mortar.
Multiple arches were constructed of red brick, in contrast to the
gray granite. The two smokestacks loomed high over it all. We found
the water flume, old boarding houses, the buggy house, company
office, etc.
Up
above where we parked was basically a grave yard of old mining
equipment and the automobiles and trailers of local area residents –
old trucks, cars, trailers, etc. But the view from the hillside was
great looking down on the village of Philipsburg. We found a pile of
cardboard boxes broken open, and discovered crate upon crate of core
samples, broken to pieces.
From
Kirkville, we headed on up the dirt road toward the main Bi-Metallic
Mine, the Granite Mt Mine, and the ghost town of Granite, which at
its heyday had over 3000 residents. From the brochure:
“Established on Granite Mountain in 1884, Granite, “Montana’s Silver Queen,” had its heyday in the early 1890’s with a population of over 3000. In 1872, Eli Holland reportedly found a piece of high-grade ruby silver while following a wounded game animal. Eli dug a shallow shaft on the outcropping. The site lay dormant for over 5 years until Charles McLure found a piece of silver ore on the shaft dump and thought the prospect showed promise. He traveled east to St. Louis to obtain capital for exploration and development of the property.
The town boasted as many stores and commercial establishments as any other modern Montana city at the time. One of the most famous buildings in Granite was the Miner’s Union Hall with a billiards parlor and club on the first floor, office, library, dance floor and auditorium space on the second floor called the ‘Northwest’s Finest Dance Floor’. Other amenities of Granite City included eighteen saloons, a thriving red light district, a roller rink, a hospital, five doctors, a school, four churches, several banks, a water system, named streets, and several homes for the more than 3000 inhabitants. There was no cemetery as bodies had to be taken down to Philipsburg Cemetery because the ground was so rocky a grave couldn’t be dug.
In 1893, Congress repealed the Sherman Act lowering silver prices. Within 24 hours of the repeal, on August 1, men and women came down the mountain in search of new homes, leaving their worldly possessions behind them. One year later, only 140 people remained in Granite.”
The road up
to Granite, marked “Travel at Your Own Risk – 4w drive
recommended”, wound steeply uphill through forested slopes. We saw
timber ruins along the way, and finally came to a sign marking a
major portion of the Aerial Tramway, built to transport ore from the
mines at the top of the hill down to Kirkville for processing.
Gradually, as the views of the Flint Creek Valley opened up below, we
entered the snow zone! Granite sits at 8000 feet elevation, well
within the recent snows. But the road was quite passable and we
eventually came to some parking areas.
We parked
near a sign marking Main Street and quickly found the ‘Visitor
Center’ - a signboard with information about the Granite Ghost
Walk. Unfortunately a map of the walk was missing, just shortcut
information. We saw signs marked GGW everywhere, but mostly followed
the roads and some trails in our exploration.
We found the
following: the Miner’s Union Building – the brick and stone walls
still standing, but in a dangerous way. Cabins, with mattresses
still inside, the roof caving in. Churches – just the foundation
remains present. For the bank and the Company Office, just the vault
remains. All of the wood remains were covered with snow, which added
a sort of frosting to the image. A more modern mine rebuilt some of
the buildings, but we saw the original ‘headframe’ for the mine
shaft – not screened over and filled with cement. We found some of
the rusted metal cages used to transport miners up and down the
shaft.
Way up on the
hill, another long wall of granite foundation with brick arches
supported the old stamp building. Rick was awed by the size of the
timbers used – the heart wood of the tree, as we could see the
inner rings of many cuts. Some looked to be 12x15” in size. The
main ore shaft is a towering wood structure, leaning to one side.
Next to it is the intricate lacework of logs that form the framework
for the carts that roll out the ore to dump it down toward the
tramway.
Off in the
distance the multiple runs of Ski Discovery Winter Recreation area
can be seen.
Down off the
mountain by 3pm, quick stop at the Gem Shop to find NO postcards or
pins. I have been stumped to find a pin from the Caverns, Butte, or
Philipsburg!
Showers and
then Rick disconnects the water and sewer – easier in the sunshine
that in freezing morning temperatures. We are ready to move out in
the am!
MONDAY,
September 25
Philipsburg
to Kalispell, via Missoula
186
miles
We are on the
move! A warmer night than anticipated as it is nearly 38 degrees
when I arise. Cloudy which kept the temps higher.
On the road at
9:15 headed north toward Drummond and I-90. We pass through a narrow
canyon and then the Lower Flint Valley opens up with extensive
pastureland – cows, horses, sheep, even some goats! It is a
beautiful drive.
Then it is
west on I-90, a stretch of interstate we haven’t driven since we
came home from a trip back East with the boys years ago! The freeway
follows the Clark Fork the entire way, winding through forested hills
and rocky outcroppings. Really a nice route.
I call Sabine
as we enter Missoula – we made arrangements to meet at Mackenzie
River Pizza near Exit 101. We gas up the truck, park, and then walk
down to the restaurant. Sabine and Katya arrive about 5 minutes
later. A very pleasant meal catching up with them, learning from
Sabine the ins and outs of the fire season and its impact. It just
occurred to me that I forgot to ask about the Thompson Pass fires.
At 1pm we are
headed north on US 93 toward Kalispell. It is even spitting rain off
and on – nothing particularly heavy, but the clouds are hovering
over the mountain peaks. I will not get my stellar view of the
Mission Mountains from above St. Ignatius today as I had hoped with
it new dusting of snow. I probably won’t see the peaks! (And I
didn’t!)
Into Somers
and Steve’s place by 3:15. We park right in his driveway in front
of the garage, finding the electric cord Steve left sticking out of
the garage for us! All set up and then we head up to Kalispell to
check out cameras at Walmart, Target, and Best Buy. A useful trip as
it helped answer some questions I had about battery power.
We arrive back
at Steve’s just as he is getting home. A quick hello to the dogs
and Steve changes clothes (he has been helping a friend all day with
some construction project) and then we drive down to Lakeside to the
Tamarack Brewery for dinner. A busy place on a Monday night!
Steve and I
order fish tacos and Rick another sandwich like wrap. Wow –
servings are plentiful. I only ate ONE taco – it was huge! And I
still have my leftovers from lunch as well! We sit and visit for
nearly two hours. Steve is doing well – keeping busy with
projects, some of which Genia encouraged prior to her death. He
opened up pretty well about his tough days and special days,
especially Sam’s wedding and a trip the week before with Sam to a
boat show in Washington.
Back to
recluse ourselves to the trailer, as Steve will be heading to bed
early! We could tell he was tired.
Raindrops are
falling on our trailer roof! G’night.
Stopped also
at the park store and picked up a few postcards, a pin, and a metal
pinecone art work.
From Tiger we
are officially on JUST Hwy 20 and it goes UP rapidly to climb out of
the Pend Orielle valley. We passed a string of lakes and through
thick mixed forests. Then DOWN into Colville and Kettle Falls (on
the Columbia River). Shortly after leaving Kettle Falls, we stop at
the Flume Logging Interpretive Center and grab a bite to eat. Nice
conversation with a gal from Colville who knows Cal Kelley (former
Bakerites). She was very interested in our trailer, so we gave a
quick mini tour! I picked some rose hips from around the area. We
took a short half mile stroll through the trees which had displays on
the flume, logging in the area, and the fires that took the ultimate
toll on the logging industry.
TUESDAY,
September 26
Habitat
Dedication and Family Visits
Wow! What an
incredibly gorgeous morning after a questionable Monday evening!!
The sky is clear, the sun is shining! After some good mornings with
Steve, who is working from home this am in addition to a meeting at
the office at 10a, Rick and I take a walk along the bikeway. I go
with him down to the intersection with Hwy 82 to BigFork and then
turn around. Rick continues another mile plus. His extra section is
not as scenic – it is along the highway! From Steve’s to the
intersection is a beautiful stretch under big rocks and along the
pond. Steve and I saw trumpeter swans on the pond this morning –
so beautiful when they skimmed the surface in flying off.
Internet at
Steve’s! My computer and phone automatically connect since I have
been online here before. Wonderful...and before we leave I will take
advantage of SECURE internet to do a few financial transactions!
We make
arrangements to meet with Jen Schultze at 1 since she has to work
tonight during the dedication. Otherwise, Allison has contacted many
of the other homeowners and they are all going to be at the house
between 4:30 and 5 so we have a chance to visit before the dedication
and before Ashleys get caught up in all their other guests.
When Steve
gets back from his meeting, we stand outside chatting for awhile and
he tells us the story of the flower ‘bed’. A beautiful new
section of flowers as we approach the house, put together by Genia’s
friends who wanted to help landscape and Genia wanted a flower bed.
An old metal headboard and footboard, with alyssum quilt and zinnia
pillows anchor the area. As we were talking, a butterfly landed on
the pillow and lingered all during our conversation. Genia was
present.
We lunch on
our leftovers from last night. Plenty to eat!
We visit with
Jen for over an hour. She is such a wonderful gal – so concerned
about Ethan’s and Mahrias’s transitions to the new school, so
involved in their church and community. Anticipating some job
changes, including EJ’s promotion with the Pepsi company.
Leaving Jen we
have a couple hours to blow before 4:30. We trek to Walmart, and I
look at cameras once again. I just think I am going to wait – the
reviews on the one I wanted were so bad. We pick up a few other
things, but want to wait on the groceries until after the dedication.
So….we gas up the truck and then wander into Home Depot. I REALLY
like the portable Ryobi Circular Saw I used at Rexburg and it would
be compatible with all our other Ryobi stuff. The shelf is empty.
More wandering and I finally ask someone. Well, it turns out they
are on the top shelf. We are in luck! So...new saw, plus a new
umbrella (the price was right and the size is very condusive to TWO
people!).
Now
what...Still have 45 minutes to blow. Coldstone Creamery is calling
to us – a good dinner, just in case the appetizers at the
dedication aren’t enough! We share a small Oreo Mocha and say a
toast to dear Katy Branston. The last time we were there was with
Katy.
Over to the
homes and since Ashley’s aren’t there yet, we knock on Mary’s
door! It is so rewarding to see the shock of recognition on Bree’s
face when she opens the door! Eventually Davida brings her three
over, Davidson kids are all over the place (high energy!), and the
Ashleys arrive. It is so good to see them all. Finally EJ comes
over with Ethan and Mahrias – they are post cards for Rick and I
that never got mailed this summer. Mahrias’s tells me how sorry
she is about my mom. What a sweetheart.
The dedication
is packed. Ashleys are so active in the Fresh Life Church of
Kalispell, their pastor is the one doing the prayer, and many friends
came to congratulate them. Nici, the volunteer coordinator, reads
the Ashley’s letter requesting a Habitat home which is a total
affirmation of why we do this!! Building hope, building community!
Kids are in and out the entire time, weaving their way through the
crowd to the cheese and cracker trays!
Afterwards, I
help Nicci cut the chocolate cake (Liesel’s request – love that
little girl!) when Rick comes over with John and Jenny Branston,
Katy’s parents from Memphis, TN. What a surprise. They just
happened to be out in the ‘area’ since her brother is getting
married next Saturday in Polson. Saw the email, and decided to drive
up. Amazing. We visited with them for awhile (I abandoned the
cake).
Pictures with
the Ashleys, and final goodbyes to families and kids. I told Liesel
we would be coming back in the spring and she immediately asked me,
“Can we have another tie dye party?” I guess my reputation
precedes me!
We stopped at
Walmart for groceries and then down to Steve’s. Thrilled to find
he has made a fire in the firepit. We put away groceries, change
into smoke worthy clothes and quickly join him. An hour and a half
at least in conversation as the skies cleared, the moon was beautiful
and the stars came out. Steve shared so many Genia stories of this
summer, his plans. A good evening.
WEDNESDAY,
September 27
Somers,
MT to Priest Lake SP, Indian Creek, Idaho
246
miles
Up and rolling
a little earlier today! Steve stops to say goodbye around 7:10a on
his way up to the jobsite in Columbia Falls (they are rehabbing one
of the townhouses). We pull out at 8:15 heading south along the
Flathead toward Plains. The clouds came back in over night, but the
further south we drive, the more blue we see in the sky. Eventually
it clears off into a gorgeous day!
From Plains it
is new highway up the Clark Fork along Hwy 200 toward Sandpoint, ID.
Huge rocky cliffs on the north side of the road as we leave the
Plains ‘plains’, but we are surprised by the breadth of the
valley overall. Large ranches and wheatfields, rangeland. The Clark
Fork is dammed at Noxon, so the river gets wider and wide like a long
lake as we near the dam. We pass through Thompson Falls around
10:30am and decide we aren’t stopping that early in the day – we
will travel on to Priest Lake and just enjoy the canyon as a drive
today. And we do!
The railroad
and highway crisscross the lake/river several times between Thompson
Falls and the state border. Soon after passing into Idaho (and
Pacific Time Zone again!) the Clark Fork empties into Lake Pend
Orielle (why don’t they just say Ponderay which is how it is
pronounced?). This is a natural lake that is deep and huge! We
follow the north side of the lake into the town of Sandpoint, and
then the Pend Orielle river to Priest River.
A stop to gas
up and get some information, plus a bite to eat! The lake is another
25 miles north and the campground another 15 after that. We are
going on hope that spaces will be available and open!
And...they
are! Indian Creek Campground of the state park system is located
about halfway up the east side of the lake. It is the only
campground with full hookups. The air smells wonderfully of pine and
fir, the lake is 20 miles long and beautiful. We find a campsite,
settle in, and relax! Rick reads while I wander a nature trail, put
out an errant campfire left burning, and then I sit and read as well.
The sunshine is warm and inviting!
Tomorrow we
explore some more!!
THURSDAY,
September 28
Exploring
Priest Lake
It’s a
glorious fall morning! Crisp air and sunshine! We spend a lazy
morning and then take off for the north end of the lake.
It is a
somewhat disappointing trip. First I led us on a wild goose chase,
thinking a road went around ‘Cape Horn’ - when it actually
deadends. Plus all the lake was lined with private homes and mostly
we saw lots and lots of trees – no good lake views.
The rest of
the drive to the tip was much the same. Tree-lined road. And the
trees were pretty, but we were hoping for much more. We found
Lionshead Campground and drove through. Would have been a tough
place for the trailer. But a beautiful beach and the water is so
very crystal clear. Private roads kept us from continuing, hoping to
find the ‘Throughway’ which connects the two lakes. We drove on
up East Shore Road aways, thinking we might come to it, but only
found extensive logging! Maps indicated lots of trails and ‘things
to see’, but nowhere did we find anything actually marked. So….we
drove back down to Indian Creek, stopping once to pick up firewood
since campfires are allowed now.
Stopped also
at the park store and picked up a few postcards, a pin, and a metal
pinecone art work.
In the
afternoon we followed two trails that go around the campground. The
first took us UP to Vista Viewpoint, which overlooks the southern
portion of the lake. A nice viewpoint, although I think trees have
grown up some since they put in the sign. Then down to follow the
flume trail, which doubles as a winter cross country ski route. It
mostly wound through the dense forest – so a cool hike! The only
evidence of the flume is at a display area down by the Day Use loop.
Rest of
afternoon reading, etc. Cooked our kibasa on the fire and had an
enjoyable evening watching the flames and all the visitors pouring in
for the nice weekend.
FRIDAY,
September 29
Priest
Lake to Riverbend RV, Twisp, WA
282
miles – mostly on WA Hwy 20
So today
seemed like a lot of driving (especially since Rick did it all), but
we only traveled less than 300 miles. It was just all two lane and
over 4 mountain passes, one of which was Sherman Pass, the highest in
Washington at 5575’!
We left Priest
River around 8am, heading back down to Priest River (gas up again
prior to entering Washington!) and then we follow the Pend Orielle
River north from Newport. The route follows closely with the river
in places, then veers away through large ranch fields. We passed two
paper factories spitting massive amounts of smoke – we thought the
fires were much closer!
A stop in the
non-town of Tiger (it lost its zip code and post office) for a
bathroom break and a quick visit to their little museum store run by
volunteers. The town has been hard hit economically this year as the
tourist train didn’t run, a major slide closed the road to Canada
this spring, and then fires shut down the road on both the Canadian
and US sides.
And then we
climb again to Sherman Pass. We stop at the Sherman Overlook just
below the summit for a brief walk and interpretation on the White Mt.
Fire which devastated 20,000 acres in the late 1980’s. A 1929 fire
which burned over 150,000 acres pretty much wiped out the white pine
lumber industry.
Then...it is
down to Republic, Kady’s hometown. The layout was much different
than I had pictured in my mind. Much more on a hill – which Rick
said is typical of mining towns. We saw Kady’s high school and
football field, and then stopped for gas at the Beaver Trap Junction,
a gas station and store. Prices were at least under $3 so that was
good! We had to turn out of ‘downtown’ before I was ready, but
the hwy turned, so we had to!
From Republic,
we are out of the national forest as much – the hills opening up
much more with grasslands and ranches. We still had another 4,000+
summit to climb, and then a windy narrow road down Bonaparte Canyon
into Tonasket. We are finally in the Okanogan Valley, a fertile
stretch of orchards and agriculture reaching from Wenatchee to the
Canadian border.
As we headed
down US97 (also Hwy 20!) south to Omak, I managed to get cell service
and called again to an RV park in Twisp to ascertain they had space
for us with a WE only spot. In luck and the price is JUST outside
the budget, so good enough!
We stop in
Omak for gas, and then west again on 20 toward Twisp, 30 miles away.
But we must climb again, past apple orchards in abundance, to 4005’
Loup Summit and ski area. From the summit down to Twisp, there is
evidence of the 2015 Twisp Fire, in which three firefighters were
killed, and the town itself was threatened. Blackened trees
everywhere.
Twisp was a
typical small town. We find Riverbend RV two miles north along the
Methow River. Get settled, and Rick has read a little about the town
of Winthrop and thinks we should head up there for dinner. It proves
to be a GREAT suggestion. Winthrop is the Leavenworth of a Western
Town circa 1900. Wood boardwalks, false fronts, and a fully restored
downtown. We find the Old Schoolhouse Brewery and Pub, and
eventually make our way to the riverside patio for dinner. Not the
cheapest meal we have enjoyed, but definitely original in terms of
our orders. Rick had a local brown beer and a turkey, bacon sandwich
on ciabatta bread. I ordered a Super Food Wrap that included
chicken, kale, quinoa, brussel sprouts, feta, sunflower seeds, and
multiple other healthy things on a spinach wrap. It was very good!
We sat right out along the riverbank and enjoyed the water and the
ambiance.
After dinner a
walk past all the shops. Might have to stop here tomorrow and poke
into a few.
Back to
campground to enjoy a little internet time!
SATURDAY,
September 30
Rainy
Pass and Lake; Washington Pass Overlook; Cutthroat Lake Trail
What a great
day filled with variety!! The forecast was so-so, but we managed to
get a great day in inspite of the fluctuating clouds, shifting
weather, and scattered raindrops.
We head up the
Methow Valley past Mazama, at which point the agricultural valley
gives way to the narrow confines of the rapidly approaching peaks.
The fall colors are a constant blaze of reds and oranges and yellows
mixed with the greens of the firs and the gradually changing larch.
The sun is shining until we cross over the top of Washington Pass, at
5575’, and drive into a wall of cloud and light rain. By the time
we reach Rainy Pass five miles further, the pass is living up to its
name! Welcome to the west side of the Cascades!
The parking
lot is a zoo – cars everywhere and yet it is raining! Guess we
have to remember the west side folks ALWAYS have rain, so they come
prepared! We find a spot and decide to just take the short 2 mile RT
hike in to the lake. As it turns out, nearly everyone else is taking
the 4 mile Maple Loop Pass Trail! We encounter a few people, but
when we get out to the view area at the lake, we have it
to ourselves
for at least 10 minutes! The trail is accessible, so paved the
entire way and relatively level along the contour of a hill to reach
the lake. The fall colors on the hillsides above the glacial lake
are incredible – patches of light green, gold, and red. High above
the tamarack trees are beginning to lighten, making a golden tinge on
the upper slopes. The tops of the peaks above the lake are hidden in
the swirling mist of cloud.
Back to the
truck and we drive back up to Washington Pass and the overlook.
(Rick missed the turn earlier!) The North Cascades highway was the
first major route over the mountains proprosed – back at the turn
of the century in 1900. But it was the LAST to be completed, nearly
80 years later! Many route proposals, etc. The overlook was built
as part of the pass and it is a spectacular view down the valley and
into the cirque of peaks surrounding the pass. William Stafford
poetry highlighted two of the display areas. The weather made
visibility a little difficult, but a beautiful spot.
Originally
today we were going to hike to Blue Lake, located just past
Washington Pass, but when we drove by, the cars were already parked
out on the highway. A mess of people! So we decided to drive on
down a few miles and find the Cutthroat Creek Trail, which involved a
3.8 mile RT to Cuththroat Lake, nestled at the base of the peaks on
the north side of the pass. We did NOT get
rained on, and even got a
few moments of sunshine! A wonderful COOL hike along a red bordered
trail – huckleberries are turning orange and the mountain ash was
thick in a deep red color. When we got to the lake, we found
extensive marsh areas on one side – the lake will be a pond and
then a meadow in another 50-100 years!
No wildlife
today other than a few deer and chipmunks. We drove into Mazama on
our way back, but didn’t find much there. Quick stop for wine and
bread in Winthrop, (quick, but spendy....wine for Rick and I and a loaf of bread totaled $39.50 with tax!) and then ‘home’ to do some laundry and eat
soup! We did pay for another night’s stay here, so we can hike
Blue Lake tomorrow. My pedometer logged over 8 miles today and 19,000 steps! Hurray!
SUNDAY,
October 1
Blue
Lake Hike
Oh my! What
an incredible hike we took today! The weather didn’t give us what
we wanted, but gave us what we needed!! However, it WAS sunny in
Twisp this morning. We have witnessed first hand the difference of
30 miles in the west moist-east dry phenomenon of the Cascades. As
we drove up to Washington Pass this morning, we entered a whole new
world! White! Yet, more of the peaks were visible (with their fresh
dusting of snow) than yesterday when they were hidden in swirls of
foggy mist. The powder white was simply amazing.
Since we
arrived at the parking area shortly after 9:30, we didn’t have any
trouble getting a parking space (I will note that when we left, cars
were again parked out on the highway!) A beautiful and brightly
colored blue jay at the registration board.
The hike up
was a gradual climb (1100’ in 2.2 miles) but never severe UP. Long
switchbacks helped to dispel the idea of uphill. The snow fell and
then stopped. One avalanche chute was a complete carpet of white on
top of the undergrowth. When we returned around 12:30, all the snow
had melted and the full glory of the fall colors were displayed.
The
larch/tamarack trees this high in elevation are turning to their
golden hues. Such a contrast with the deep green firs, spruce, and
pine. The lake is deep, which gave it a bluer color than Rainy and
Cutthroat. We visited awhile with some gals who were in Winthrop for
the Volkwalk. That explained the crowds in Winthrop and all the
groups (especially women) that we met on the trails. They asked
about my Baker Bulldog sweatshirt – her son coaches in Pendleton!
Another group told us to continue on up the trail to another little
tarn around the ‘corner’. It was snowing again by the time we
arrived, so the tarn didn’t reflect the peaks as well. The Liberty
Bell and the Early Winter Spires tower over the lake basin (and
everything else at the pass!)
A busy trail
coming back down – and it seemed 80% of them were bringing their
dog with them! All breeds and colors. Families, little kids, old
folks – this is one of the most popular trails in the pass area.
We are back at
the trailer around 1:45, having gassed up in Mazama (cheaper than
anything in Winthrop at $3.09) Afternoon spent watching football and
uploading photographs! Taking advantage of the decent wifi at this
park!
MONDAY,
October 2
Riverbend
RV Park, Twisp, to Alpine RV, Marblemount
93
miles
We didn’t
cover a lot of miles today, but what miles they were!!
Packed up,
drained, and on the road by 9:30am. The clouds are lingering on the
east side this morning and we found growing sunshine the further WEST
we went! Go figure!
Spectacular
views up around Washington Pass – the snowy dusting still lingers
on the peaks. As we head down new highway past Rainy Pass, the peaks
just keep coming! All have a touch of snow, larch trees in golden
colors, and radiant vine maple, huckleberry reds, sumac and ash. We
find the road steepens to a LONG downhill grade toward Ross Lake.
(Not one we would want to pull a trailer UP!) We follow Granite
Creek down its canyon, but with peaks and views above us and all
around. Sometimes the trees just get in our way from perfect
viewing!
We missed the
overlook for Ross Lake and Diablo Lake, which was too bad because
both are worth the view. So we caught the one at the end of Gorge
Lake, the third and final dam on the Skagit River. The namesake for
Gorge Lake is narrow and complete rock walls of canyon. Amazing. We
continue on down through Newhalem, the company town for the dam work
for Seattle City Light. We tried to stop at the North Cascades
National Park visitor center, but it is closed during the week now
and the parking lot was being resurfaced, so we couldn’t even go
look at ‘outside’ displays. In fact, it was a challenge for Rick
to even turn around, as we had no warning about the parking lot
closure.
On down to a
few miles east of Marblemount and the Alpine RV Campground. Nothing
fancy, but full hookups for $25 a night! We set up camp, grab a bite
to eat, and then drive on in to Marblemount to find the ranger
station and park wilderness center. Helpful young ranger who made
suggestions, plus a few phone calls for us! (No cell service still!)
Picked up a few brochures, plus a pin and a passbook stamp for the
park.
I wanted to
poke around Newhalem abit and we weren’t planning to head back up
that way tomorrow, and at first Rick wasn’t going to go, but then
he changed his mind. I drove up the 13 miles to the town, and we
took two trails: the Cedar Tree Loop that visited the old powerhouse
and the Ladder Creek Falls trail that winds up a hill behind the
current powerplant. The early developers were so enamored with the
power of electricity that they designed the trail with colored lights
in the trees and on the falls, planting exotic non native vegetation
to thrive in the ‘warmth’ of the lighting. I didn’t see any of
the orchids, etc., but the creek and falls were lush and full. Rick
visited the inside of the powerplant and its interpretive stuff while
I found the falls. Great information – The Gorge Dam was built
first in the early 1900’s, followed by Diablo, and then Ross. None
of the dams harmed the salmon runs because there was a natural
barrier just below the Gorge dam that stopped the salmon anyway!
Back to the
trailer around 4 to read, relax, shower, and in general get ready for
a big hike tomorrow. We are going to head out of Marblemount
southeast, and make the 7.5 mile RT hike UP to Cascade Pass. This is
the old native route over the mountains and into the lush Stehekin
Valley. If we were ambitious we could hike all the way to the
cabin….just 20+ miles away!
TUESDAY,
October 3
Cascade
Pass Hike
A cloudless
morning – perfect fall weather. Cool, crisp (very cool – frost
on truck window!) and sunshine.
Beyond the
weather? I have no words to describe. Bald Mountain, Mt. Jefferson,
Yokum Ridge, every hike I have been on that has moved me to tears –
all rolled up into one! I’ll do my best to describe, but…..
The road into
the trailhead takes off right from Marblemount. It is the Cascade
River Road, paved for the first 10 miles, and then gravel for the
final 13. The ranger said it would take us a hour to drive, and he
was right! Very washboardy (is that a word?), but overall the gravel
sections weren’t as bad as I had imagined. Parts of the upper road
were paved of sorts, probably because they were washing out so often.
Gradually as
we drove, the mountain peaks began to emerge. The Johannesburg
Mountain to the south of us was a magnificent ridge of multiple
pinnacles and massive chunks of rock. Glaciers clung to the cirques,
and everything was dusted with the first snows of the season from
over the weekend. The sun was rising right over the pass and casting
its glow everywhere. We only caught occasional glimpses of the peaks
as the road traveled up the heavily treed river bottom area. The
road climbed over 3,000’ in elevation from Marblemount to the
trailhead (thankfully!)
The wind
rushes over the pass and down into the bowl below – a perfect
glacial carved valley under the peaks and ridges. It was COLD when
we started out, clad in mittens and ear warmers and wind breakers!
By the time we reached the pass, we both had shed our windbreakers,
and undershirt, and all extra cold weather gear!
The trail
climbs 1700’ in 3.7 miles (most of that climb in the first 2.7
miles!). Thirty-three switchbacks on the side hill of the canyon,
through forested slopes thick with cedar and douglas fir, hemlock,
vine maple, and huckleberry, gradually carry you up, up until the
final ¾ mile high above the valley that contours to the pass. We
hit patches of residual snow from the weekend around switchback 20,
but nothing of any consequence. On the open slopes, the colors were
amazing – bright yellows, oranges, and deep reds. Open hillsides
of a kaleidoscope of hues. We had to cross a long talus slope just
short of the pass, and then through thicker snow as we crested to the
top. The pass sits at 5392’ and the view down into the upper
reaches of the Stehekin Valley were lush. We didn’t have a good
map with us to identify much of what we saw. But everything was
spellbinding and breathtaking. I felt like we were already in the
Alps!
A group of
‘Happy Hikers’, a Seattle based club that hikes on Tuesdays, was
already at the pass when we arrived. MANY more came through while we
enjoyed the top (for over an hour, despite the cold wind!) Trail had
more traffic than I would have expected on a weekday, but it was a
gorgeous day to take off! As we began the return hike, we heard of a
black bear on the slopes above the talus field. Sure enough, we
spotted a HUGE bear foraging in the bushes, healthy with a shiny
sleek fur of the deepest black. Far enough away, but easy to watch
with binocs! Rick was excited!
We are back at
the truck around 3pm – we aren’t the fastest, but 5 hours wasn’t
too bad for nearly 8 miles and plenty of time at the top! By the
time we got back to the truck, the sun had set behind the ridge and
the canyon was cooling down rapidly.
Once back in
Marblemount, we decided dinner out was a good idea! Three places to
chose from, and our first choice was closed! So we ended up at Mondo
Restuarant, with its rather eclectic menu. We both had BBQ pulled
pork with coleslaw, beans, and corn muffin. GOOD!!
HOT showers,
arranging a date with Casey Kirkendall tomorrow night, and reading
and internet time. Tomorrow we head for Mt. Baker.
WEDNESDAY,
October 4
Marblemount,
WA to Maple Falls, WA (Silver Lake Co. Park)
80
miles
Another day of
transition, but a short one! (Although the roads were narrow and
windy in places, so not exactly FAST travel!)
We left Alpine
RV around 9:30, heading west on Hwy20 toward Sedro-Woolley, the first
‘big’ town we would encounter. Went through Concrete, a company
town that supplied much of the material for the dams upriver and
located at the southern tip of another dam that forms Baker Lake to
the north. We couldn’t see the lake, however.
Following the
Skagit River – this section is a huge wildlife area for wintering
bald eagles. The salmon run is strong and the eagles know it!
Nothing happening now though.
Into
Sedro-Woolley and we found gas and a grocery store. We had just a
few things to pick up for the next few days. Eating out helped, as I
ate my cornbread muffin from last night with my breakfast, and
eventually the second half of my pulled pork on a salad for lunch!
From Sedro we
head north on Co. Road 9 toward Deming and the junction with 542, the
Mt. Baker highway. We stop at the information center in Maple Falls
and pick up some fabulous brochures on the drive and hiking options.
Then 4 miles north to Silver Lake County Park.
We ended up in
a different section of the park than I intended, but it had electric
and water and was the first we came to. Heavily wooded campsites –
overall almost cold and dark! (In the middle of a hot summer, it
would be wonderful!) Found a suitable spot #43 and while Rick began
the set up, I took the truck to drive down to the park office to fill
out the self-registration for two nights. As out-of-county
residents, it cost $31 a night, but we have amenities!! No
complaints.
We eat lunch
and then spend a rather relaxed afternoon. Rick reads and takes a
nap, then reads some more and showers. I took off on an hour walk
around the park and trails, visiting the other campground area, the
cabins, the lake, the playground, the beach….you name it. About 2
miles worth. Then back to draw two Picasso prayers and tackle a
crossword puzzle.
We left for
Sedro and our hot date with Casey Kirkendall, Kady’s younger
sister, who is living in Bellingham and working in Mount Vernon. She
works late, so couldn’t meet us until 7pm. Sedro was our
compromise location – a place she could get to relatively fast, and
we didn’t have to get into the I5 mess. I drove down with the
stipulation that Rick would drive home in the dark! It was about 38
miles on a windy road back down to S-W.
Casey arrived
right at 7 – we were on our second bowl of chips by then! We spent
a good hour of conversation and catching up, but with a picture from
the waiter, we parted at 8, knowing both parties had a 45 minute
drive to get ‘home’. It was a fun time and hopefully encouraging
and supportive of Casey.
Couple glasses
of wine (that’s one each) and we are just about ready to call it a
day. Mount Baker is calling to us tomorrow!!
THURSDAY,
October 5
Mts.
Baker and Shukskan, Mt. Baker Highway
How lucky
could we possibly be to get the two most absolutely gorgeous days for
our two more important hikes? Or should I say blessed?? THANK YOU,
GOD!!
Obviously, the
day dawned perfectly crystal clear – not a cloud in the sky. We
left shortly after 9 to make the drive up the Mt. Baker Highway to
the end at Artist Point. Maple Falls is the last ‘major’ city on
the way (I use the term loosely – it has under a 1000 in population
– its credit comes from having the last gas station!) We pass
through Glacier – FS ranger and info station and a few restaurants,
but that’s it! Maple Falls was at milepost 25, and at milepost 47
the road begins a 3200’ climb over the last 9 miles! Up and up
with multiple switchbacks, past the Mt. Baker ski area lodges and
lifts, past Heather Meadows Day Use area (closed for the season), the
picnic area, Picture Lake (the iconic spot for taking photos of Mt.
Shuksan) and up more steep and sharp switchbacks to Artist Point.
What a marvel of road engineering, but you can understand why the
road crews decided NOT to continue with a road across the top of the
North Cascades!
Driving up we
had good views of Shuksan from the ski area on, but Mt. Baker is
hidden from view by a large massive of stone – Table Mountain.
That is the very mountain we plan to hike today! It is less than a
mile and about 600’ climb to the top of the initial summit, but the
mountain continues in a long ridge to the southwest. The trails are
hard to follow since most of them are user trails past the ‘rock’
and probably change year to year based on snow levels, etc. Parts
are muddy, and we try hard to avoid the areas where we would be
stepping on the fragile alpine heather the rangers are trying to
encourage. We continue at least another mile along the top of the
ridge to a point where we can sit and just reach out to the north
face of Mt. Baker.
A treat along
the way! The wild blueberries are thick in certain places, and the
further we go from the main ‘rock’ trail, the more we find. Big
ones, hidden down among the heather. I don’t think I have ever
gleaned blueberries or even huckleberries from such a scenic spot!
We didn’t pick to take any back with us, just to stuff into our
mouths.
The fall
colors, as everywhere, were glorious, especially when the sun shone
through and made them light up. I kept turning around to see if
pictures of Shuksan were presenting themselves, but we deliberately
hiked Table Mountain first, so the sun could be shifting from behind
Shuksan and we would get Baker while the sun was right. Later in the
day will be better from Shuksan to our east.
I built an
inuksuk for Luke in the middle of a vast rock field, and then found
dozens of cairns up on top of the rock later! Table Mountain is not
volcanic, and most of the rock was nice flat shale pieces! Easy
stacking!
 |
| Panorama Photo of Shuksan on left and Mt. Baker on right (peeking out from Table Mt. Ridge) |
Eventually we
came down from Table, grabbed drinks and shed extra gear, and then
took off for Artist Ridge on the opposite side of the parking lot.
This trail wanders, with just a little climb, about a mile out to the
end of the ridge towards Shuksan. Wow! I never imagined I could get
this close to a mountain at this elevation. Several glaciers.
Shuksan is NOT volcanic like Baker. It is of the same geology as the
rest of the North Cascades peaks. (Fact….Did you know that North
Cascades National Park has over 300 glaciers? More than Glacier
National Park!)
Back to the
truck and the drive down the mountain and a stop at Picture Lake for
the classic reflection shot of Shuksan. Rick stayed in the car while
I ran down the path to take several shots.
Our last stop
on the way back down was at Nooksack Falls, a 90’ twin drop of the
North Fork of the Nooksack River. It was part of a former electrical
power plant of dubious intent (a get rich with underhanded methods
scheme). The viewpoint looks down at the falls from the top as it is
very steep and dangerous (fencing kept people back as nearly a dozen
have died going where they shouldn’t and falling).
Back to the
trailer! It is cool in the shade, which is a good thing since we
discovered we never turned the fridge back on yesterday when we
arrived! It was a little warm (50 degrees), which was only 5 less
than the temp in the trailer! Showers, dinner, and a quiet evening.
Tomorrow we head for home.
FRIDAY,
October 6
Maple
Falls, WA to BakerCity, OR
504
miles
Yes! The horse
was heading to the barn and we drove all the way home today! A long
day, but glad to arrive home to the blaze of a glorious sunset over
the Elkhorns and to sleep in our BIG kingsize bed! Rick felt so good
to shower with SPACE!
We left Silver
Lake CG at 8am, stopped to ‘dump’ the sewer and waste water, and
were on our way back down Hwy 9 to Sedro Woolley again. One final
time to gas up there at the Arco! On down 9 another 60 miles or so
to the junction with US Hwy 2. We could have jumped over a few miles
to I5 at any time, but it just seemed nicer to stay on the backroads
2 lane. We wound through farmlands, lakes and country estates, tiny
towns, and eventually into more of the ‘burbs’ of Everett before
turning east on to Hwy 2, one of the first east-west roads across the
state of Washington. This way, by the time we took Bluette Pass
south of Leavenworth, we were on all new highway until we got to
Ellensburg!
The road over
Stevens Pass, which follows the old Burlington Northern rail route
(and now Amtrak) is beautiful, especially on the east side of the
pass where the trees open out and you can really see the peaks and
rocky cliffs above. We missed the first waterfall stop and then
bypassed the second as we had made the decision by then to plow on
home and Rick had just started momentum on an uphill climb! From the
pass it eventually follows the Wenatchee River down a narrow canyon
to Leavenworth. Fall colors were amazing on the hillsides, with a
quilt like patchwork of orange, red, light and dark green,mingled
with the white of granite cliffs and rocks.
Leavenworth is
hosting is Octoberfest this weekend, one of the reasons why we opted
NOT to stay in this area for the weekend. We drove through town –
traffic was heavy but not impossible – and then 4 miles further,
headed south on 97 to go over Blewett Pass. Poor Hondie – up and
down over and over today!
As we neared
Ellensburg, several emergency vehicles, including fire trucks, passed
us heading toward a pillar of smoke I had seen on the hillside as we
came down. Hope that was not a serious fire.
Gas stop in
Ellensburg and I took over driving at that point. Rick had logged
nearly 250 miles on two lanes. Time for a break and we were on
interstate all the way home!
Around
Tri-Cities the driving became a little more intense as high winds had
picked up and the dust was blowing freely! When I turned south
toward the river, it seemed like I had a head wind for quite some
time. Not fun driving, but I got us to the Space Age in Hermiston in
one piece. I said hello to Maryalys in Quincy as we made the
decision to head south on Blewett, then hello to Mike and Michelle
and Suzanne and Steve in Tri-Cities, and finally to Midge and Cal in
Hermiston. But we were on a mission by that point – Baker or bust!
Rick took us
home from Space Age on… up and over two more passes. We arrived
home at 6:45, as dusk was descending on the city. It is Homecoming
night in Baker City, and we hear the Star Spangled Banner playing at
the stadium as we unhook the trailer. Afraid we are too tired to
make it to the game.
TRIP FACTS
AND FIGURES:
TOTAL
MILES: 3438
Total
Trailer Miles: 2076
Nights in
Trailer: 42
Avg. cost
per day of trip: $66
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