EUROPE
4: ICELAND!!
Tuesday,
September 25
Milan
to Reykjavik
In
the Air Again!
Ah!
As I write tonight the sun has set, it is dark with an 83% chance of
Northern Lights (IF – a big IF – the clouds break open!), and we
sit looking out a huge picture window from our 6th floor
apartment to a lake and distant snowy hills. A full day of travel,
but a good one!
We
hit the breakfast room just after an Asian tour group had descended.
Everything was nearly wiped clean – few eggs, no rolls or coffee
cakes, no croissants, no fruit, no coffee cups! The room was a
hubbub of activity and noise. We picked up a few things, found a
seat finally and then just chilled as the workers tried desperately
to clear tables and resupply! Eventually Rick even found some
watermelon that had been put out, and we got coffee cups!
We
left Milan at 11:20 after taking the 9am shuttle from the hotel.
Figured out where to check in – finally – and got through
security in good stead. Took time to locate a store where I could
purchase a set of decent earphones – I am not missing all the
movies on the way home! Airport was crowded (just like the town!)
and we have to find seats a little distant from our gate.
Rick
had a window seat from Milan to Copenhagen, which was good as he was
able to see all the mountains of the Alps as we headed directly over
going north. Italian Alps were still bare for the most part, but
some of the Swiss mountains had snow on them. Scattered clouds also
dotted the viewing. We flew briefly over a part of western Sweden
before banking and approaching Copenhagen from the east.
Flat
land surrounded by water!
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| View out airplane window in Northern Italy |
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| View as we cross over into Switzerland |
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| Nearing Copenhagen - we think this is Swedish coastline! |
We
found a place to pick up a couple of sandwiches, ate, and then while
Rick was in the bathroom, we heard our names paged on the intercom.
I guess while we were eating our whole plane had boarded! It was
still 25 minutes to departure! We checked in and were told the
captain wanted to get rolling early if he could because we had a head
wind the whole way!
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| Leaving Copenhagen - my seatmate let me lean over for a couple of shots! |
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| Copenhagen |
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| Grabbed a quick pix of our entertainment! |
What a delightful flight, even if it was 4 hours long! I sat next to a young lady, a native Icelander, who was headed home to stay for awhile and work in a nursing home. Then she’ll return to school in Denmark to study medicine. We chatted abit while enjoying our other entertainment for the flight – a 12 month old boy sitting in the seats in front of us. What a character and a social kid. He was climbing all over mom and dad to reach out to us with his hands, smiles, and giggles. Rick was in heaven! Eventually he sacked out for about 2 hours in mid flight – much to his folks’ relief! They had a little bed for him on the seat between them.
I
watched ‘Lion’ the movie about the Indian boy who went seeking
his mother. Excellent but also a tear jerker. Rick watched some
Jackie Chan movie. I could hear him laughing aloud at times!
Finished off the flight with a couple episodes of Big Bang – I
needed something light after Lion!
 |
| First rainbow view as we left airport |
Landed
in Reykjavik around 4pm – 2 hours picked up in time zones today.
Went to the duty free store for some wine and chocolates, then
finally found our baggage (we had taken so long in the store it had
been removed from the belt!) Over to Avis Rental Cars where we
finally got our bright red Hyndai – with no GPS this time...sadly.
Will have to use the phone! As we drive in the flat peninsula, it begins to rain again, yet a rainbow keeps appearing. At one time we could see the entire arc and it landed right in front of us. But I was so busy navigating, I didn't get a picture!
Reading
through the apartment papers, I discovered we should have received an
email 3 days ago with information and the office was closing at 5pm.
I read that at 5:45pm! Oops! But fortunately, after locating the
Iceland Apartments, we entered as someone walked out, and found the
office open and someone there to give us our keys, show us the map
and lights icons on a computer pad they keep in the entry area and in
general overwhelm us with the warmth of her hospitable welcome!
Barely
got settled and walked over to the grocery store across the way to
find it had closed 15 minutes earlier. Hmmm. Noticed a pizzeria
also and tried it – success! Ended up getting an order of the
traditional Iceland lamb soup and a Hawaiian pizza small – to go!
Back to apartment and we shared the soup, ate half the pizza, and
will have the other half for breakfast. (The grocery store doesn’t
OPEN until 11am!)
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| Ready to enjoy our late meal of lamb soup and pizza! |
Time
for bed! We’ll figure out a schedule for a rainy day tomorrow in
the morning! But before I leave, I will post a few pictures of our accommodations for the week:
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| View out window - clouds had lowered a bit, but we can see this lake with some snowy hills behind it. The building below houses the place where we found the pizza! |
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| Basic needs met! And a little space which will be nice after Venice and Florence tiny rooms! |
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| No lack of pillows here! Four on bed and four more in cupboard (not counting the orange ones!) That down duvet is REALLY thick! Could be hot! |
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| Kitchenette with coffee maker and microwave, couple burners, and basic pots and pans. Oh... and a mini dishwasher even! Fridge is behind the left small cupboard door. |
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| Outside the Icelandic Apartments |
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| Our Icelandic Apartments location. |
Wednesday,
September 26
Þingvellir
National Park
(That’s
pronounced THING-VETT-LEER)
We
arise this morning after a good rest (albeit warm – the duvet is
REALLY thick!) and enjoyed coffee and cold pizza (actually I think
Rick warmed his in the microwave!) Enroute from the airport
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| The morning sun is beginning to shine over the lake below us. |
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| A shot I took during the night of the lights. |
Well,
Rick called and the gal had us take the car just 15 minutes north to
the outskirts of Reykjavik to the AVIS center next to the bus
station. Technicians hooked the car up to the computer and it
checked out fine. It ran fine going in with no smell. So we kept it
– such a bright red color!
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| Small farming area along the way |
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| Lutheran church celebrating the Trinity: Mosfellskirkja |
By
the time we returned it was 10:15am with the weather forecast pretty
nice for the next 4 hours. We punted the peninsula and decided to
drive up to Þingvellir
National Park, part
of the Golden Circle Drive. There were some hiking trails we could
take, plus waterfalls, an old church, etc. The part is located on a
large lake and it situated on the rift where the North Atlantic and
Eurasian tectonic plates meet – largely the reason why Iceland is
the volcanic island that it is! As the plates are separating, the
magma chamber close to the surface keeps sending more lava to feed
the island’s
50 some fissures and mini volcanoes. Eruptions occur as often as
every 4-5 years, some more violent than others.
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| Small lakes dot the hillocks. |
Enough
geology! We are on our way driving north past Reykjavik on the Rim
Road #1, then turning off on Hwy 36 toward the park. It is a barren,
moss-covering lava, land! In the distant we can see mountains (peaks
‘soaring’ to 1500’) covered with a fresh dusting of snow.
Icelandic horse farms, rural villages, and sheep dot the landscape.
We spy a church on a hill and later read it was built in the 1960’s
by a famous architect who focused on triangles to represent the
Trinity.
We
arrive at the park at the peak visitor time! Parking lot is full.
Tour buses present (four of them) and people everywhere! We check in
to the visitor center, pick up a marginal map and a sandwich to share
(salmon and egg) and head for the trails!
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| Welcome to the park! BTW...no entrance fees! |
After
a visit to the overlook, we drop down through the fissure, wall of
basaltic rock on either side of us. The history of this area is
fascinating in its own right, as for over a thousand years,
Icelanders gathered in this central meeting place for government
assemblies. This was at a time when the island had no cities, only
scattered sheep ranches, trade was mostly with Norway, and pagan
religions reigned. Eventually the island was declared Christian in
1000 AD by decree, but towns still didn’t develop for awhile. In
the VC, the first display I visited talked about the various places
on the trail where men were hanged for thievery, women were drowned,
men were beheaded, etc. Quite uplifting reading! We saw each place
along the way!
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| Dropping down through the fissure between the plates. |
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| Rick takes my picture from the overlook. |
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| Walls of basalt! |
Two
waterfalls, most likely from the same source, are
both unique and beautiful. They are full with water, the mist from
the upper falls thick. A couple asked me to take their picture, so
I got one of Rick and I in return!
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| Small waterfall tumbles through the basalt. |
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| Oxararfoss - Waterfalls at Þingvellir National Park |
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| At Oxararfoss |
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| View across the valley to the peaks. |
Wandered
back by another trail towards the church, the national cemetery, and
manor house located when the assembly used to take place. Legend has
it the King of Norway sent timber over to the island to build the
church shortly after the decree of 1000 AD. A church has been on
this site since then. The present building was erected in 1869.
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| The Þingvellir Church |
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| Entrance to the 'commoners' cemetery at the church |
The
National Cemetery is a bit of a joke. It is a large circular lawn
divided into quarters, each with the intent to hold 12 graves of
national significance. It never caught on and there are only two
famous Icelandic poets buried there!
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| Waterway leading to the main lake |
Back
past all the waterways and mini ponds that dot the landscape and up
the hill through the fissure again. Rick has me pose so I can
‘touch’ both plates!
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| Touching the tectonic plates! |
We
debate our options – drive straight back to apartment, drive back
on the scenic road, stop at the swimming pool. We finally opt for
#1, a good decision as the rain beats down on us shortly after
heading back. But it is just an isolated squall, one of several on
the return trip.
We
decided our major goal was to get to the grocery store – when
they
don’t open until 11 and close as early as 6:30pm, it can be tough!
We needed food in the apartment!
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| View out our window. |
It
took us nearly an hour – tough when things are scattered all over
in the store and you can’t really read the language on over half of
it! Some things we just guessed on, like my yogurt! Picked up some
ready-made lamb soup again for tonight’s meal. But
we are good now for breakfasts, a few dinners, and some snacks in
between.
The
view out the windows of our apartment reveal everychanging scenes on
the mountains, traffic, and lights. The clouds lift to show even
more of the peaks around us and then close in again. We can see the
line of car lights approaching from the southern rim road in the
distance. It is rather like having a huge TV on the world!
We
checked through a number of things as possibilities for the next few
days – Friday is 100% rain all day. Might be a good time to check
out Reykjavik and a thermal pool! But I think tomorrow will be the
other half of the Golden Circle.
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| Snowy mountains out our window! |
Thursday,
September 27
Golden
Circle Part 2
Geiser
and Gullfoss
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| Full moon out our window last night! |
Ah!
Another day in the island paradise! (Hmmm...that sounds like we
might be in Hawaii, or Tahiti, but no….a different kind of
paradise!) Iceland
is fast approaching winter. I guess fall is a very short season as
soon as the autumn equinox passes by! The leaves have turned in many
places, bushes turned red, and there are very few flowers to be seen
in the hills and among the lava moss. And
it is brisk outside with a cool wind blowing often!
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| The sun is TRYING to break through! |
We
eat a REAL breakfast today from our purchases yesterday (no pizza!)
and after grabbing a cup of coffee to go at the little Cafe on the
corner of the building (don’t ask – 500 ISK each or about $4.50
US for a small cup!) we are on our way. We figured we could save the
to go cups and reuse them tomorrow with coffee we make in the
apartment!
On
the Rim Road 1 heading south this time, but only briefly as we take
off on what is known as the Nesjavallavegur
scenic
highway toward Þingvellir
National Park. We
couldn’t possibly drive the same road twice!! Nesjavallavegur
routes along the geothermal pipeline toward the plant at the southern
end of Þingvellir
Lake.
(It has another Icelandic name that starts with Þing….
But
give me a break!) The road is lined with blueberry and crowberry
bushes, all long since picked by now, but a bonanza of an area in
August for berry picking! Broad open spaces with mountain ridges
speckled with snow. Virtually empty of habitation! Near the end of
Hwy 435 we cross over the 1500’ pass in a series of winding twisty
roads wending their ways through the lava faults and cracks. It is
fascinating country. We only wish the weather had been a bit sunnier
for some brighter pictures!
We
head north on Hwy 360 toward the park and along the edge of the huge
lake. Narrow road, but now we find more homes – possibly
year-round, but more likely summer homes. I love the artsy side of
the road – the dotted lines on either edge give it a funky feel!
If we wanted to avoid some of the tourist traffic, this route met our
needs: we saw NO other cars along the way!!
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| Far side of the lake and distant snows. |
We
pass the entry to the national park, hoping we now have a jump on
some of the Golden Circle tour buses. It is only 10am. They should
be hiking around the park...ideally. (But it is raining, so maybe
not!)
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| I could never find any mention of this little church on the internet. And so unusual! |
We
have to take a short detour along the eastern side of the lake due to
a road closure and construction work, but then head east again toward
our real destinations for the day: Geysir and Gullfoss.
It
is about an hour drive from Þingvellir
National Park to
the Geysir area. We pass through a broad valley, seeing sheep now
brought in from free summer range to graze within the fences, shaggy
haired horses, and in some areas, enough soil to actually grow hay
and crops! Just
past the town of Laugarvatn (with a fancy thermal pool that costs
almost
as much as the Blue Lagoon!) we pass through Uþlio
and I see an unusual blue church on the hillside. Picture is a
little blurry, but it had the most interesting black line pattern on
it!
Finally
we reach the Geysir area (pronounced GAY-seer!) The Icelandic word
means ‘the gusher’ and from it we get the word geyser! The
original geyser in this area was first mentioned in written records
as far back as 1100AD. It stopped spouting for several hundred
years, and then began again, on a random basis, after an earthquake
around 2000 or so. It isn’t the
‘feature’ of the park anyway, however, as the geyser Strokkar is
the star. This geyser’s claim to fame is the regularity and
frequency of its eruptions. But you’d better be ready because it
spurts up 20-40’ and in 2 seconds is done….for another 5-8
minutes. Repeat. Over and over! The
place was crawling with people, but we still enjoyed the colors on
the hillside, the smells of sulfur, and the multiple steam vents.
We
check out the gift shop but prices are so high we just can’t bite.
So it is on down the road to Gullfoss, one of Iceland’s premier
waterfalls. We drive to the essential ‘end of the road’ (you
need a 4x4 to continue on into the interior) and brace ourselves
against the chilly wind blowing on this plateau. We decide that warm
soup in our bellies will help! The cafeteria sells excellent tomato
soup and bread which we really enjoyed.
An
incredible amount of water flows down this river and then tumbles
down in an area where two fault lines converge. The upper falls are
about 30’ high in a stairstep broad layer of water. Turning at a
right angle, the lower falls plummet down 70’ in a thunder of water
into a narrow and deep fault canyon, throwing up a spray that often
blocks the view of the fault itself. We walked first out to the
upper viewpoint, then back to the stairs that drop you down to the
lower
trail.
We
are blessed with sunshine and thence a rainbow that appears to the
left of the falls as we walk down the path. The mist here is
intense, the trail wet. You are able to climb out onto a huge slab
of rock that protrudes between the two falls. From there you really
get a sense of the magnitude of the water.
Back
up to the gift shop where we found prices about 20% lower, so I
finally picked up a small gift for Annalea.
We
headed back down Hwy 35 toward Selfoss, stopping first at Skalholt, a
Lutheran church and conference center. The church was in the process
of some restoration – the chairs and furniture moved to the sides,
and a young man with scaffolding working on some upper windows. An
old pulpit with some artwork on it, and a small pipe organ in one of
the side sections.
The
stained glass windows were quite striking and the mosaic of
Jesus on the altarwall was one of the most unusual pieces of
liturgical art I have ever seen. While we were in the church, the
rain stopped, the sun came out, and the colors from the stained glass
windows on the floor and across the front were gorgeous.
Rick
went on back out, but I paid the small donation requested and went
downstairs to the crypt. Not so much because I wanted to see all the
marble slab markers, or the tuffstone burial container of one of the
first bishops, but because there was a tunnel passage that led from
the crypt through stone walls to an outside exit.
I tried the door and it opened to the tunnel, and walked in. You
could barely see with just a little light coming through holes in the
stone, and when I got to the exit door I couldn’t get it opened!
Momentary panic thinking the other door had latched behind me, but I
turned on the light on my phone and realized what I needed to pull to
get out! Evidently the tunnel was an alternate entry into the
cathedral.
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| We passed fields w hairy Icelandic horses grazing |
We
stopped next at Borg at the swimming pool, hoping for a chance to
soak in a thermal pool, but this was just a regular local pool with
no thermal waters. Not hot enough!
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| From Selfoss to Reykjavik Highway 1 winds thru a vast plateau of moss covered lava. |
On
south to the coast at Selfoss and we head west, once again on the Rim
Road and heading back to the apartment. We climb over a pass, see
another geothermal plant (the actual source of the major steam vent
visible from the apartment window) and drop down in the peninsula
area. It’s been a full day!
Quiet
evening. We make up our pesto pasta for a little dinner.
ADDENDUM: Riddle for the day to figure out. The curly clover like signs that dot certain places along the road. We are finally deducing they are 'points of interest'. A little interest research confirms it!
Friday,
September 28
WET
and WINDY!
A
Little Cruise of Reykjavik
Well,
the weather forecast is without a doubt accurate! We wake up to very
gray, low-ceiling clouds, and rain hitting our viewing window. No
need to get moving very fast, so we make up a big pot of coffee in
one of the pans – putting 4 of the little coffee pods in it!
Easier than making it one cup at a time!
Rick
wants to stop at the Avis dealer again since the warning light
Then
on in to town. Reykjavik Rt 41 basically just follows the edge of
the bay around toward the Harbor. We were hoping to find the free
parking lot near the harbor, but it appeared to be under construction
at the moment. We passed the historic Viking Ship sculpture – a
rather modern looking steel piece of art right on the shoreline that
looks something like a fish skeleton! My pictures didn’t come out
in the rain, so I will post one from the internet! 
Also saw a cruise ship parked along the harbor, and some interestingly colored buildings!  |
| Loved this paint job! |
We
drove down one of the harbor streets, but eventually just wound
around the main downtown section and headed back up the other side of
town. We could see the famous Hallgrimskirka in the distance, so I
navigated Rick in that direction, hoping for at least a photo from
the road. But….we gave the parking lot a try and discovered a spot
right by the front when a tour bus pulled away. I couldn’t believe
our luck!
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| This is an internet photo of the BACK of the church showing the dome atop the nave area. (Also showing blue skies like we haven't seen!) |
Entry
into the main sanctuary is free – tours of the 70m tower cost, but
they were on the honor system today since the little office was
closed. Hallgrimskirkja
was
designed
to represent the basaltic columns found in Icelandic landscape, as
well as be ‘bigger and better’ than another
church
at the other end of downtown that was built earlier. The same
architect designed both!
It
is vast, open, and filled with light. No stained glass windows (only
one small one in a little side chapel), just towering clear glass
between the cement like pillars. The nave area is large and circular
under a quasi-dome. There is little liturgical art, just a couple
small sculptures on either side aisle. The pulpit does have some
decorative glass panels in it.
The
pipe organ is huge – it reminded us of the big organ just installed
in Tuscaloosa, Alabama. There is a concert Sunday night, but the
tickets are $25 each and we will have spent a long day of driving
already. But we can only imagine what the acoustics in the building
must be and the kind of sound the organ will produce.
Perhaps
my favorite part of the sanctuary was in the back – reminiscent of
Catholic churches where you can light a candle in memory of someone
or in prayers for a situation, there was a globe- shaped tea candle
holder where
you could light a candle representing bringing the light of Christ
into the world. I photographed the poem next to it as it reflected
so beautifully the effort.
Do not let the darkness prevent you from seeking the light!And when you have found it let other people see,
re-think and be convinced.If you want the light to live
then give rise to the same yearning in other people.
Light the light of frankness in the darkness of fear,Light the light of justice in the darkness of corruption,Light the light of faith in the darkness of denial,Light the light of hope in the darkness of despair,Light the light of love in the darkness of deathLight the light!
– Bo Setterlind
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| Older hot tubs upstairs |
After
leaving the church, we drove just a few blocks before finding the
Sundhollin Pool AND a parking space right in front! Wow again!! This
pool is the oldest thermal public pool in Iceland, opening in 1937.
Its location in the heart of the city in a historic old building
makes it a favorite of older downtown residents. (There are 7 public
pools in downtown Reykjavik and another 10 in the surrounding
‘capitol’ area – Swimming is big in the country!)
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| Outdoor 25m pool where I swam some laps |
This
pool was a perfect choice – seniors 67 or older get in free! No
pay for Rick and I cost 980 krona. (For
comparisons, the Blue Lagoon is over $70 each!) Sundhollin has two
full pools, one indoor and one outdoor, a couple saunas, a children’s
pool, a cold pool, and 3-4 hot pools. Temperatures in the pools
ranged from 10°C
to 42°C!
We mostly enjoyed the 39° pools! I did swim some laps in the
outdoor 25m pool which felt good. You
couldn’t bring cameras into the pool area, so I will post a few
online shots instead!
Iceland
is very firm in its rules regarding the pools. Cleanliness is very
important. Everyone is expected to take a shower (with soap and no
bathing suit!) prior to getting into the pool. No shoes in the
locker room, dry off in the ‘drying room’, etc. Having done it
once, now it will be a little easier to navigate!
While
we were in the upper level hot tub, I looked out over the city and
saw two of the black steeples of a church we saw in a pamphlet.
Called Hateigskirkja,
it
has four
pointed steeples, two
smaller than the others. Again, online photo!
We
spent about two plus hours at the pool, then decided it was time to
pull out of the city, even though we still haven’t done any
shopping! Back to Kopovagur and a stop at the little bakery and the
Bonus grocery store for a couple supplies.
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| Icelandic Mac n Cheese! |
Tonight
we are ‘resurrecting’ a standard menu item from 25 years ago or
more (when the boys were little and we were making ends meet) –
Tuna and Macaroni and Cheese! I added a carrot and used a little of
my yogurt as the milk! It worked!
Speaking
of yogurt, I have been eating some along with mueseli for breakfast.
I bought a brand called Skyr, mostly because it was the right size.
I couldn’t read most of the labels, so I didn’t really know what
I was buying. But
we found an article in one of the local magazines (an English one!)
that wrote of the nutrition and health benefits of Skyr! Apparently
it is moving into the US market as well. Here's the article: 
Evening
spent planning our next two days of exploration. The weather is
supposed to be better later tomorrow morning.
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| The middle top open window is ours! |
Tidbits
of Iceland discoveries:
1.
More people speak English than you would expect. We've only run into one gal - in the bakery - who couldn't translate for us.
2.
Navigating is hard mostly because you can’t even pronounce the
place names!
3.
Our toilet is square shaped.
4.
Hot water smells like sulphur and is REALLY hot!
5.
You
can have open windows and the heat turned on at once.
6.
Icelanders are very conservation minded- don’t walk on the moss!
(It only grows a centimeter a year!)
7.
Iceland has a population density of 3.3 people per square kilometer
as opposed to Italy’s 201! (Just for comparative purposes, the US
is 35)
8.
Iceland’s population in 2017 was 334,000
people, yet over 2 million visited the island that same year!
9.
The Ring Road (Route 1) that circles the island along the more
inhabited coastal regions, is 828 miles long.
10.
Iceland measures 234 miles horizontally from Reykjavik to
Egilsstadir, and 139 miles vertically from Vik to Dalvik.
11.
In area, Iceland is 40,000 square miles and will fit comfortably
within the borders of Colorado state.
12.
We found a few speed check monitors that flashed when you were going
to fast, and then when your speed dropped to an appropriate level, a
smiley face showed!
13.
Others places have smile buttons for you to push if you are happy!
Being happy in Iceland is important!
Saturday,
September 29
TO
VIK AND BACK!
Exploring
the South Coast
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| Morning view to the east! |
On
our way around 9:30, stopping first at the Olis Travel Stop for a cup
of coffee. Cheaper than yesterday at only 265 ISK each, but not as
tasty! And still a rather small size for us Americans who like BIG
coffee cups! Ah well!
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| Quick view of Selfoss church - the only one today that WASN'T red and white! |
From
Selfoss we travel new highway which is always an exciting
proposition! We
travel through rich farmlands, dotted with sheep, Icelandic horses
and an occasional cow. Swans are a common sight in the ponds and lagoons. The skies are cloudy and rain falls lightly
at times. We can’t see to the north to the glacial peaks. Between the two major waterfalls, dozens more cascading or drop over the steep cliffs.  |
| Huge flock of swans in a pond. Tough to focus at 60mph! |
We
decided to drive straight through the 180 km to Vik, the southernmost
town on the island, and then stop at some waterfalls and viewpoints
on the way back. The sun SHOULD
be out by then!
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| Green hills and black rocks of Vik |
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| Vik, with the 'troll' rocks off point. |
We
find the Information center and gather a little information, plus
read up on the local volcanic actions, including the 2010 eruption of
E15 (Newscasters adopted this name when they couldn’t pronounce the
name of this volcano – it starts with an E and has 15 letters after
that!) that disrupted air service all over Europe with heavy plumes
of volcanic ash in the air. We picked up an ornament and a few
postcards and then drove around the city. Found the grocery store
and picked up a drink and some
‘goodies’ to add to our picnic
lunch fare. A drive up to the red and white church on the hill,
which has NO identification on it, but it written up due to its large
parking lot and excellent views from the hilltop over the surrounding
area! We ate lunch in the car which surveying the views!
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| Icelandic horses grazing on hill above church |
Speaking
of red and white churches….Vik was just one of 5 that we passed
during the day, all very small, some located on individual farms,
each just a little bit different from the others. I read the other
day on the internet about these little rural churches – many
farmers felt they would gain merit
if they built a church on their land, plus there weren’t many roads
and people couldn’t travel far to worship. Hence, you see many
little churches located right next to the barn and farmhouse! Today
all but one we saw seemed to be red and white!
We
made two stops on the way back – the first out to a promentory just
north of Vik named Dyrholaey. It has a lighthouse on it and is a
nesting ground for many shore birdes, including puffins. We drove
right up to the top and the wind was blowing!!! Short walk out to a
viewpoint in front of the lighthouse, gave us a view east to the
‘troll rocks’ or ‘dragon’s teeth’ (depending on who you
ask!)
near
Vik, and west along the vast flat sands. Below are sea stack arched
rocks, with waves crashing under and upon them. Turn around and with
the sun now shining we can see the vast expanse of Myrdalsjokull
glacier to the north.
 |
| Spot where toe of glacier comes near road |
All
along this stretch of road there are waterfalls dropping down from
the glaciers above. It reminded Rick and I of the Columbia Gorge
with all its waterfalls. I
messed up and we missed the turnoff for Seljalandsfoss, but I grabbed
a photo from the road. It was a pay parking lot anyway and the sun
had disappeared by then and it was lightly raining.
 |
| Seljalandsfoss....from the road with tele! |
But….that
light rain meant rainbows kept appearing over and over! Not just the
one at Skogarafoss, but complete rainbows over stretches of rolling
green fields with the glacier in the background. I would see a
rainbow fade and then around the corner another would appear!
Iceland may be the land of fire and ice, but I would add rainbows to
that mix. We wonder if the low level of the sun factors in along
with the misty rains and constantly changing skies.
The skies did clear much of the way back, however, so that we got some views to the north of the peaks and glaciers. The top of E15 was easily seen - it is hard to image a vast glacier on this active volcano, because it just looks like every other mountain peak with snow on it! But the Me Glacier field is very obvious - broad and flat!
Back to the apartment just before 5pm for a relaxing evening watching Ryder Cup, downloading 200 photos, editing etc.
 |
| From the promentory, looking inland to the Myrdalsjokull glacier. This one is part of the Katla Volcano which has been asleep for 100 years and due to erupt any time! |
 |
| E15....Eyjafjallajokull....and several of those letters have other symbols on them! |
Back to the apartment just before 5pm for a relaxing evening watching Ryder Cup, downloading 200 photos, editing etc.
 |
| We found sunshine on the hills to the east ....briefly anyway! |
Sunday,
September 30
NORTH
to the FJORDS
Last
Day of September, Last Day of Adventure
We
awaken to clear skies and a beautiful sunrise! All week we have been
looking forward to today – the one day out of our time here when
the WeatherUnderground showed a sun!! Hurray!!
Shortly
after 9 we are on our way north! The first portion of our trip will
be on roads already traveled, but then we are past the road to
Thingvellir and headed toward the Hvalfjordur fjord and the tunnel
under the tunnel that was completed about 20 years ago, cutting off
nearly an hour of travel around the fjord. This
channel is one of the deeper ones and ships are able to travel clear
to the end. Two major smelters are located just past the tunnel –
one for silicon and one for aluminum, making use of the islands
surplus electricity.
We
were ready to pay the 1000 ISK toll for the tunnel, but there was no
charge station. We figured it was just Sunday, or they only charge
for southbound traffic. (Later read on the internet that 2 days ago
they ceased charging for the tunnel! What luck!) You
literally drive downhill into the ground, continue downhill along the
water edge for a km or so, then turn and pass under the water for
about 3.5 km, then back up the other side!
On
up the west coast, catching periodic views of glacial peaks and fresh
snow, coastal
inlets, shore birds, and limited traffic! We approached the town of
Borgarnes
across a causeway.
From
the causeway we could see a church set on top of the highest hill
(like many of them around here, so
we pulled off 1 and explored the town. I thought for sure the church
parking lot would be full as it was just after 10 on a Sunday
morning. Not a car. (Quick
Google search reveals a number of 2pm Sunday services….)
Beautiful
building with a simple, white light interior.
We
drove down to the wharf area and found the iconic sculpture on the
knoll (it looks like a donut with wings) in tribute to Eygill, a
nanny killed when she stood up for the child against his father. The
knoll provides a great view of the town of 2000.
We
continue up Route 1 for another 15 km or so and then head off on Hwy
50 toward Reykholt, a small village in the ‘interior’ amidst
fertile farmlands. The road romps through fields of green, cows,
sheep, and lots of horses. It is beautiful in the morning light with
the shadows of snowy peaks and glaciers in the distance.
We stop in Reykholt at the site of the NEW 1990's church, which also houses a gift shop and museum below, and located on the historic site of some former Icelandic hero. The OLD 1880's church is behind it - simple and more colorful than some of the newer buildings. It seems to be a collecting place now for historic pulpits, altarpieces, etc. Pretty pale blue ceiling, and a glass panel in the floor that allowed you to see the remnants of a blacksmithing rock below (discovered when they had to restore the foundation.)
We walked around the new church and couldn't find an open door, which was disappointing to me because I could see there were some strikingly different stained glass windows. A very modern bell tower with no bell. Probably digital. Then we discovered the open sign and entry BELOW the church level. We had walked straight to the old church and missed it.
Although I did see a bishop/priest in a robe talking with visitors, it certainly appeared no service had taken place. The modern building is filled with light, the stained glass largely in shades of gray and white with a few brownish tints. Big organ.
A full gift shop in the lower section, restrooms, and a small museum on the history of the hero guy. (I'm not even going to try to spell out the name.) We poked around the expensive jewelry and lots of books. I finally told Rick, "I just can't purchase overpriced items or books about trolls from a church on a Sunday morning!"
A
stop just past Reykholt at the Bruarus Cafe. We weren’t sure it
was even open as just one car was in the parking lot! I liked the
grass roof! We found the OPEN sign out, however, and got first-class
service from the young man at the counter since we were the only
customers! (We think it has just opened at noon). Rick ordered
their soup of the day – a spicy carrot soup! I was leery of the
spicy part so I ordered the Children’s Menu chicken strips.
Perfect portion size and I got a salad, three GRILLED strips with a
sweet sauce, and a load of french fries. I shared over half of those
with Rick! Midway through our meal another family came in. Good
stop! (And not outlandish in cost by Iceland standards….About $30) |
| Bridge spans the gorge between the two falls |
Back
through Reykholt and we continue on the Hwy 50 loop a bit closer to
the mountains now, eventually coming back to 1 right at the causeway
into Borgarnes. The skies are beginning to cloud up!
Just
north of the tunnel, we head east on Hwy 47 to take the ‘old road’
around the fjord – the road that was the main Rim Road until the
tunnel was built. Now it is a forgotten stretch of highway! The
tide was low, so great expanses of black gravel were exposed along
the water edge. We passed the old WW2 refueling camp with its
Quonset village, large pier, and multiple oil tanks on the hillside.
We passed a still-in-use, but environmentally-protested, whale
processing plant. And one church on a bluff, somewhat by itself.
Mostly a lot of green banks, white mountains in the distance, and
water!
On
the south edge of the fjord, we came to two waterfalls. The first,
Fossa, (original name, because it simply means ‘waterfall’) had
an old stone sheep holding pen near it. The second, Laxafoss, was
really just a broad drop in the river – more cascades than fall.
But pretty!!
Our
fjord road took us back to Route 1 right at the south entrance to the
tunnel. We turn left and head back toward Reykjavik! Looking across
the inlet, you can see the buildings, especially the Hallgrimskirkja
towering above everything else!
We
are tired. This traveling business is hard work! I don’t even
download pictures or write until later (or the next morning!) but
simply take a shower and then we watch the most inane Christmas
special ever made called Santa’s Dog. The acting was horrible, the
story silly, and Rick was good to leave it on but I had to find out
how it all worked out. Of course it had a happy ending! (It seems
there is either a channel or we just hit the right time of year, but
one station was playing non-stop Christmas shows….already!)
We
eat up the last of our pasta and in general finish up food that we
won’t take on the plane and don’t want for breakfast! That means
I had 3 glasses of wine last night, which I definitely noticed! But
I couldn’t take it with me and the bottle was opened! (Both empty
bottles are going home with me cause they are pretty!…..if I can
fit them in!)
Monday,
October 1
HOME
to the USA!
A
Long Afternoon Flight to Portland
Ah,
the forecasted rain and wind arrived just on schedule! Twice during
the night Rick got up to open the windows, but the wind has shifted
and was blowing them shut! It meant we slept warm...too warm! Now
as I write the rain is pelting the glass. Winds are around 20+ kph
with higher gusts. We plan to chill here in the apartment until
11ish and then take off for a quick look
at the lower peninsula enroute to the airport.
 |
| Does the rainbow go right through the building? |
 |
| It was hard getting the whole rainbow into the camera frame! |
 |
| Gravel section...Rick was questioning!! |
 |
| Do someone plant the moss in a heart shape? |
 |
| Tough to even see the lake! |
 |
| Chunks of lava, moss, and red fall colors! |
Through more barren lava – I think this whole section is part of a new national park of some kind – until we reach the coast. Windy!!! We head west toward Grindavik, with the goal of perhaps having lunch at the Brygghan Cafe – I had read they were reasonably priced and served excellent lobster soup! I can’t leave Iceland without having eaten some FISH! The cost is 2000 ISK per bowl (circa $18), but with one free refill and all the bread you want! Serve yourself! Small little local place right on the wharf. We watch the dredge scoop up loads of gravel and rock and dump on a barge while we eat. Rick has a bowl of veggie soup for his refill, but I splurge and eat two bowls of lobster. Not a strong lobster taste and another spice I could never identify, but it was rich and good!
We
cruised the town briefly and then headed north toward the other side
of the peninsula and our rendezvous with the airport! Drove
right past the famed Blue Lagoon thermal pool – overpriced and very
commercial!
Gassed up the car, found the Avis/Budget return place (what a busy
spot!), and were cleared for return! They provide a shuttle over to
the departure doors of the airport, which is nice since they are
about 4 blocks away and it was trying to rain once again!
 |
| I guess before we turn the car in, I should post the map I made of our Icelandic travels! |
We
stop to put our raincoats into Rick’s suitcase, and then tied it up
with the clothesline rope. We lost the strap Jed provided somewhere
between Milan and Reykjavik on the way here. Baggage checked,
boarding passes in hand, we are through security without a problem.
Two hours to blow until time to even THINK about finding our gate!
Rick has a book to finish, but I wander over to the Iceland Store to
do a little ‘looking’. Hmmmm. Go get Rick, and we drop over
$100 in a little gift shopping, mostly for the boys. (Don't read that part, Jed and Luke! :) All that fits
into the backpacks!!
 |
| Glass design on airport waiting area ceiling. |
More
chill time….I am plugged into the outlets in the waiting area while
Rick reads. This will be finished upon arrival in Baker most likely.
Time to edit some
pictures and prepare to take off!!
We
struck up a conversation with the young man next to us when Rick
offered him the book he had JUST finished. He looked it over and
said, well, even if I don’t get it read, I can drop it off at a
hostel. We began talking. He is a seasonal BLM ranger stationed in
Newport, OR. Enroute to London, then Greece, on an abroad travel –
mostly in hostels and hitchhiking. (Oh to be young!) We very much
enjoyed visiting and offered him an overnight in Baker City when he
passes back through later this winter. He loves Newport, formerly
from Michigan. I hope we get to see him again. When
he suggested exchanging info, he said he does take people up on their
offers!
Finally
leave Jaykob (he said his mom wanted to be different to spell it that
way) and went to prepare to board our flight. We were late in
getting boarded – lots of standing around – but finally left
Reykjavik about 15 minutes late.
 |
| Boarding our flight I see this REALLY pretty colored plane next to us. Our is drab in comparison. :( |
We
ending up sitting right next to the red-head gal who had been in line
right in front of us. We had noticed her bag that said Utah State
Softball. What a delightful young lady! She had been in Zurich,
Switzerland for 3 months getting paid as a professional softball
player to play with a team there and give clinics, etc. to young
kids. She
is a on site sub teacher in San Diego in her other life, while she
finishes up her masters to teach math.
The
flight itself was smooth, 8 hours long, but relatively painless.
With the new earphones I bought in Milan, I watched Cheaper
by the Dozen, The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants, and
part of The
Breakfast Club. Three
episodes of Big Bang Theory too! Then my ears got tired of the plugs
and I was getting sleepy. Time for music only!
Rick
got through a Bruce Wilis film (Die
Hard?), Lion King, and
The
King’s Speech. We
shared a mini pizza and then ate from our arsenal of apples, bread,
and cheese.
We
arrived in Portland at 6:30pm, and then spent an hour wending our way
through the customs, border agents, etc. Never done this before so
it was an experience. Definitely more steps to re-entering the US
than
any other country! And I give credit to Iceland – they are the
only country to put a stamp in our Passport! I called Liz as we
waited, not realizing we weren’t even in the main terminal
building, but in a totally different terminal at the airport! After
we waited some more for the luggage to arrive, we had to be bused to
an entry into the main terminal and finally walk out to the main
arrivals area! Liz and Dave probably had to wait 45 minutes for us
to come out!
Back
to the Simmons house in West Linn for a bite to eat and conversation
until 9:30 when we were really ready to crash (it being the
equivalent of 4:30am to when I got up Monday morning!) But staying
up with no sleep meant we would get back in sync sooner!
Tuesday,
October 2
HOME
to BAKER CITY!
We
are up and after some visit time we leave Liz’s around 9:30 and
head east! Temperatures are
mild, the skies cloudy but dry. Rick drives
to Dalles where we pick up a few breakfast burritos and a drink,
then I drive
to Space Age near Hermiston while Rick talks
on the phone with his mom. Rick takes
the last third drive
home. We stop by the property but find
nothing has
been done in our absence. :( Home at 2:45ish.
WRAP UP....
WRAP UP....
A
great trip. A good experience to be the one who can’t understand
what is being said around me, to experience new cultures and
practices. We had plenty of opportunities to check out various
shower arrangements (we know more what we want in our new house!) We
figured out that we took practically every type of transportation
possible: walk, bike, rental car, taxi, bus, shuttle, regional train
and high-speed train, plane, boat, gondola, tram, funicular, chair
lift. Fabulous! (I guess we should have gone horseback riding!) We
have some hotel reviews to share with Trish and 20 Euros to give her
for whenever. She set us up with fabulous places to stay – some
very tiny and others quite spacious. But
everything clicked perfectly.
We
saw some incredible mountain vistas, hiked on trails that went
through people’s farms, heard the music of the cowbells, watched
farmers harvest their hay by hand, and then found ourselves in the
midst of cities hundreds of years old on streets barely wide enough
for the tiny European cars. We walked into MANY small churches
filled with history and art.
But….it
is great to be home! I found more pumpkins growing (big ones),
squash and tomatoes still on the vine, and a hibiscus plant still in
bloom! I
found my freezer filled with ripe tomatoes and a bonus of pears and
peaches that I suspect were put there by Annalea - from where? I don't know! Our bed will feel good tonight!
QUICK
MEMORY IMAGES:
SWITZERLAND:
green hills, mountain peaks, snow, cow bell music, good cheese, fall colors beginning to emerge, initiation into trains!
ITALY:
Dolomite white rock, peaks, switchback roads, chair lifts, hiking bliss, people, crowds, train
stations, canals and narrow streets, more people, cheap wine, good
pasta and pesto, humid and hot.
ICELAND:
long unpronounceable names, lava, rainbows, rain, waterfalls everywhere,
glaciers, thermal pools, skyr, lamb soup.
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