Wednesday, August 29, 2018

Europe Trip Part 1 - Switzerland


35TH ANNIVERSARY TRIP TO EUROPE

PART 1: SWITZERLAND

Tuesday, August 29:
Ready to roll! 
Luggage packed and waiting.
After driving over from Baker City on Monday to my sister’s in West Linn, we enjoyed dinner with sister and niece and family. A morning walk among the hills and woodlands of the river area in preparation for 8 hours of plane flight! Liz and Dave took us to the airport around noon. We took 45 minutes to get through check-in at the desk (the line was LONG!) and then breezed through security with no problems at all. An hour to kill doing puzzles while waiting for the flight to board…..Excited and hoping I can sleep later!
What a pretty plane! 

Canada, clouds, and wing tip. 
We boarded the plane about a half hour early, Rick and I situated toward the back so we were among the first to board. A bit of a hot wait pending the filling up of the plane. The window seat in our row was filled with a lovely lady from France – her husband and two daughters were two rows behind us. She slept most of the beginning of the trip, but then we talked for abit in the middle. They live just across the border front Geneva, Switzerland – so they were on their way home. She assured me how easy navigating the rail system will be and that most everyone speaks a little English!


Red glow of sunrise west of Iceland. 
We didn’t sleep much on the flight to Reykjavik – but it was a beautiful night as we watched the sun go down somewhere over the middle of Canada and Hudson Bay, and then watched the red glow on the clouds as we landed on the island at 6am. Couldn’t see the beauty of the full
Clouds cleared for views over Germany
moon because it was on the other side of the plane the whole time!

The flight goes northeast from Portland across the plain provinces of Canada, Hudson Bay, and the tip of Greenland. Pretty smooth sailing overall, although the plane is cramped. Rick bought us baby bottles of wine around 9pm, but I didn’t manage to sleep. I think Rick watched two action movies, and listened to some music. I couldn’t get my earphones to work well, so I watched two movies that had closed captions – The Space Between Us and some other romance. Mostly I played the new word game that Liz had me load on my phone!

Dancing clouds just north of Zurich. 
We had to go through a mini customs in Iceland and got our passports stamped. A brief walkabout the small, but very utilitarian airport, before we soon boarded our flight to Zurich. Luckier this time, as the plane had 7 seats across with two aisles. I was window and Rick was aisle. Both of us happy!

We slept a hour or so, I more than Rick I think. As we moved other Europe more, I could track our progress on the monitor and by the villages and rivers than we could see below.
Hotel Montana  (web photo)

Beautiful clock tower
Don't know the denomination,
but it was beautiful! 
Landed in Zurich right on time – around 1pm Central European Time! We picked up Rick’s bag (hurray – no problems!) and wound our way through the maze of stairs and tunnels at the Zurich airport to the train platform A quick question of attendant to confirm the HB was the main station. We fill in our train vouchers and hop on board. VERY shortly we are delivered to the huge train station in the heart of Zurich. We managed to find our way out of the maze and up several levels for the short walk to the Hotel Montana. Some road construction gives us a few detours, but we made it!

We get checked in and find a small but comfortable room. It is stuffy however, as the day is very warm and the window was barely cracked open. Eventually we figured out how to operate the small fan! AND Rick opens the windows around 5 to let the cooling breeze come in.

Limmat River as it winds through Zurich. 
Swan on the River. 
Heron on river
We head out to explore, stretch our legs after the long flight, and GET SOMETHING TO EAT! Limiting ourselves to the area around the motel, we eventually find a grocery, cafe, you name it and pick up a pretzel sandwich and a wrap. More exploring down to the river (I’ll tell you which one later!) and we find swans and blue herons. Some neat old church buildings, narrow streets, lots of mass transit, and tons of bicycles and scooters! A discount market yields two bottles of wine and a bag of pretzels.

Back to the hotel at 5pm. It is now 6pm as I write and Rick has fallen asleep on the bed, the TV turned off now. Guess I’ll go get a much needed shower and head in shortly myself. We could use a good rest tonight!

BTW….Limmat River!
I loved the juxtaposition of the ultra modern paint designs on the left building as opposed to the rustic red and green of the right.  Both were within a couple blocks of the hotel.  
Thursday, August 30: 
Zurich

Yes....we did lose a day here!  Alas!  


What seemed like a long night when you go to bed at 7pm (or 6 in Rick’s case!) We had a thunderstorm around 9pm which woke us both up, and then Rick woke up shortly after midnight and read for about an hour. But….we did manage to sleep until 6:30am then (when the delivery truck began making deliveries right below our wide open window!) I managed to blow all the power to the room when I ran the little hot water heater to make a cup of coffee! Quick trip downstairs and the attendant had the power switch turned back on!



A leisurely morning and breakfast downstairs, enjoying the full fare of the breakfast buffet offered: eggs, bacon, beans, rice dish, yogurts and fruits, all sorts of baked goods and breads, and endless coffee. We sat and relaxed while watching a myriad of folks, young and old, parade past on scooters, bikes, walking, mostly all headed north. To where? We don’t know!



Arch of Zurich Train Station

Around 9:30-10am we finally head out exploring. It is cool! High today is in the mid 60’s and overcast. The sun rarely breaks through. We mostly follow our wandering desires, occasionally checking the walking tour map for highlights.



First off, a stroll back through the main train station, which is a little city in itself with shops, cafes, banks, info centers, and 34 tracks! We find the fat blue angel, Zurich’s “Guardian Angel” guarding all travelers. It was installed in 1997 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Swiss rail system. On the ‘other side’ (south) is the main th century, spearheaded the creation of Swiss infrastructure which led to Switzerland becoming an economic powerhouse.
The blue fat angel - Guardian Angel of Travelers
triumphal arch constructed in 1871, symbolizing the triumph of industry in Switzerland. The statue in front is Alfred Escher, who, in the mid 19



Fun elephant
statue along
Bahnhofstrasse
Another fun sculpture! 

We strolled the mile long Bahnhofstrasse, lined with big name shopping of high fashion, small shops, and cafes. One street toward the river was St. Peter’s Church with the biggest clock face in Europe (28.5’ across) and Fraumunster (a church dating back to 853) with its tall green spire and stained glass windows by Marc Chagall. We didn’t go into either, but sure admired the buildings from afar.






We arrived at the southern of the Bahnhofstrasse at the outlet of Lake Zurich and the Limmet River. We walked along the east shore of the lake, admiring the flower gardens. We couldn’t see the mountains in the distance due to the weather, but were enjoying the cooler temps from yesterday regardless!
Lake Zurich and distance mountains (hidden in clouds!)

Lake Zurich and old buildings

Gardens along the lake walk



Swans at the lake. 



Then to the wide open plaza fronting the Zurich Opera House. This was the cite of Zurich’s worst civil riot in 1980, as young people attempting a peaceful protest of extravagant funding for the Opera House in place of modest funding for a youth center were water blasted by police prior to the protest actually taking place. Things were tense in Zurich for awhile! Now the plaza covers an extensive underground parking structure and is covered with tables, umbrellas, and fountains.
Opera House and plaza

Music sculpture atop Opera House tower
Zwingli Statue in front
of Wasserkirsch

On up past historic old buildings, water taxis on the river, swans, and streetcars, to two old churches: The Wasserkirsche and the Grossmunster. The latter is one of Zurich’s more famous landmarks and the location of Huldrych Zwingli’s Swiss Reformation. The former building had Zwingli’s statue in front. We missed the open visit time for the sanctuary by a half hour, but instead visited the art center upstairs, with commanding views of the Fraumunster across the river.
Grossmunster Cathedral - site of the
Swiss Reformation









Closeup of spire top of Grossmunster










Fascade sculpture of Grossmunster






































Time out in blog to post the better pictures of St. Peters and Fraumunster - good photo ops from the other side of the river! 
Fraumunster framed by pines of Wasserkirsch

Fraumunster - Chagall windows are the three on the end. 

St. Peters and Limmet Riverfront

Fraumunster and St. Peters Clock towers

We wandered north up the east side of the river and then cross over back to the train station and the Landesmuseum, Switzerland’s National Museum. It is an ancient castle with a new wing added several years ago that is ultra modern in contrast. The plaza in the center is the site of summer concerts with its modern sculptures juxtaposed among century old facades, turrets, and towers. One mirror covered sculpture rotates and reflects the towers.
Limmet Riverfront

View from main bridge back toward Lake Zurich. 

Swiss National Museum (Landesmuseum)

The castle appearance of the National Museum

1842 Mail coach from Southern Germany/Swiss

Castle view from center of plaza

Modern and historic art panels line the central plaza

Castle towers reflected in plaza buildings. 

Rick overlooks the Limmet River


We then headed back into the station in search of a gelato stand. No luck. To the discount market we found last night to pick up cheese, bread, and more wine (the prices were great and who knows what we will find in Murren!) But….no gelato. :(

We swing by the hotel and ask and are directed to restaurants down the street. No luck. We finally find a small cafe where we can order ice cream inside and do so. We will find a gelato stand somewhere later! This is lunch and it is already 1:30!!

A relaxing rest of the afternoon spent in the room or down in the breakfast room reading, puzzling, etc. Dinner of meat stick, cheese, apples, and bread. And wine, of course! Gourmet feast of the highest order! And….we spent a total of $22 francs on food today, most of which will last another meal! Bargains!!

(Sorry about these pictures jumping all over the page!)


FRIDAY, August 31
Traveling by Train to the Berner-Oberland!
Zurich to Bern to Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen to Murren
Train - Train - Train - Train - Tram -Train!

Oh! Our ‘wake-up’ call is at it again this morning, promptly at 6:30am as the loading dock below us rings with the sound of breakfast delivery! That’s ok….we have places to go today!

We are down eating breakfast by 7:30, checked out, and at the rail station in time to board the 8:32 train to Bern. The station is busy this time of morning, but we manage to follow the signs and find our Gate 31 and the right train! We could have gone the longer, more scenic route through Lucerne, but the forecasted rain and clouds have arrived, and we decided to opt for speed since everything might appear white anyway!

The car is not full, but most are already on with singles occupying most of the 4-some seats on either side. But one young man nicely got up and said “I’ll move to the other side, so you both can sit here!” We appreciated his efforts! (I watched him work on school studies after that!)

I didn’t take a lot of pictures between Zurich and Bern. The area is green, agricultural, and industrial. Lots of factories, a nuclear power plant, farms, cornfields, and graffiti everywhere train related! It appears to be fairly well accepted. One roof was even covered with colorful figures and letters! The train moved quickly so it was hard to take in-focus pictures! And then the raindrops on the windows blurred things even more! The trip to Bern, a distance of about 60 miles, took just about an hour.
Out of focus graffiti on an underpass.  

We switched to another train in Bern that would take us to Interlaken, located between two lakes that have very long names that I can’t pronounce! Less crowded, and we had a newspaper from Basel to read. I did the easy Soduko in it, because you don’t have to read the language to do a number puzzle! The crossword was another story! I enjoyed looking at the different picture images for the Horoscope and figuring out the Swiss words for each sign.

Rick takes a moment to "read" the news!
A brief sample of Swiss Horoscopes! 
Village and steeple along Lake Thun as we near Interlaken.
(Ok Thun isn't a very long name, but the Swiss version was MUCH longer!)

Once we arrived in Interlaken Ost, everyone got off the train! End of the line. On to a smaller local train that would take us through a narrow cleft in the mountains (which we could barely see) and up to Lauterbrunnen. The valley is beautiful with classic Swiss design homes and window gardens overflowing with colorful flowers.
Small train station enroute to Lauterbrunnen. 

Houses and chalets on the hillsides. 

We wind up the canyon along a raging turquoise white river, passing some military installations carved into the rock walls of the mountains. Green fields, cows, and quaint little houses.
Our railline to Lauterbrunnen winds up this notch in the rock cliffs. 
Disregard the window reflections!  The massive rock wall that borders this canyon is awesome.
Military installments are seen in several places along the line to Lauterbrunnen.
Classical Swiss chalet on a green hillside. 

Once in Lauterbrunnen, we switch to a tram that will lift us UP the hillside to another village about 2000’ higher. The tram holds 100 people, but it isn’t that full – maybe 30 riders. Few seats, most folks have to stand. We could see an old funicular track below us, well grown over.
The city of Lauterbrunnen below as we take the tram up the steep hillside. 

Then ANOTHER train along the edge of the bench to Murren!! An exciting morning of travel it has been. We debark and put on our raincoats as we finally have to actually walk OUT in the rain to get to our hotel.

It is a short walk of maybe 200 yard to reach Hotel Edelweiss. We are warmly welcomed and glad to hear that our room is ready, even though we are a good two hours before check in time! We have a mountainside room with a balcony that overlooks the Lauterbrunnen Valley. But upon arrival I take a picture of our totally WHITE view!! Occasionally as the day wears on we get peaks of the rock wall across the valley, but never a peek of the 13,000’ peaks towering behind and above that wall.
First look of our room at Hotel Edelweiss. 

I took this picture of our bathroom just for Andi Conklin!
Look, a rubber ducky!  

Our initial view out the window .... pretty white!  

Brief time later, we at least can see that a mountain exists just across the valley. 


We spend the next couple of hours wandering the town of Murren, checking out shops and restaurants, admiring buildings and flowers. Found a Swiss cowbell ornament in one shop to purchase. We stop at the local grocery market and pick up some bread for our dinner tonight (we ate it all last night!) Then back to the hotel restaurant to grab our mid-day bowl of ice cream.
A rainy walk down the streets of Murren.  

...but the buildings and flowers are incredible. 

Just another flower 'box' in front of a shop. 

More flower boxes along a wall. 

And this triangular flower and veggie garden by another chalet. 


This funicular goes up about 1000' in 4 minutes to another small village.  
Rick takes a rest while I unload pictures, label, and edit. Throw out about a third because they are out of focus from the train or tram! We take time to read up on possible adventures, allowing for the weather! Then another exotic dinner of gouda cheese, beef stick, excellent bread (with every seed know to man on it!) and wine! Oh...must have your fruit – a handful of dried peaches, apples, and plums!
A clearing of the clouds around dinner reveals the village of Stechelberg over 1500' below us. 

Stechelberg and upper Lauterbrunnen Valley - there are 12,000' peaks in the distance! 


I left briefly after dinner to find the Edelweiss flower again - photo op!!  You can't stayed at the Hotel Edelweiss without a picture of the namesake flower!  (In actuality, I don't think this Sound of Music celebrated Swiss flower is all that 'pretty' - unusual perhaps, but not beautiful!  The colors are just a little drab!) 
Edelweiss  
The forecast for tomorrow is forbiding….100% chance of rain and potential half inch until 5pm. We may take the train and tram back down to Lauterbrunnen in the afternoon and hope it clears enough to rent some bikes for a ride along the river to see the waterfalls that tumble off the walls of this valley. In the meantime….a very relaxing evening!


Saturday, September 1:
Exploring Gimmelwald and Lauterbrunnen

We slept WARM last night. I’m not sure I’m a huge fan of these duvets...fluffy blankets enclosed in a sheet case. Our blankets here are down – sorta like sleeping in a down bag inside a room. We had the window open, but not much because there are no screens. I shall ask for regular sheets tonight that we can blanket with, and then the comforter for extra if needed.

Morning view off the balcony! 
A good breakfast spread here at Edelweiss – muesli, fruit, granolas, and yogurts; hardboiled eggs; a great selection of breads and spreads – jams, nutella, peanut butter, etc. A cappachino machine for coffee – it took Rick and I a few tries to figure out when all we really wanted was straight coffee! Our goal is to eat hearty during our free breakfasts and then lightly the rest of the day (when we have to pay for it!)
There's hope!  Mountains!

The view across the valley when I arise is solid white – no, I take that back! I can see a tiny little sliver of mountain top to the north. But...wait a bit and the clouds keep moving
around and more is visible!

Tripods and trees to prevent avalanches.
Leaving Murren, colorful homes. 
We decided to not let the day be a wash! We put on clothing we didn’t care if it got wet and headed out on the path down to Gimmelwald, ready to test the power of our new raincoats! We drop down the paved trail the 20 minute walk to this quintessential Swiss village of 120 year round residents, noting several interpretive signs explaining how the valley is making efforts to prevent devastating avalanches on these steep slopes. One method is to erect wooden tripods and then plant trees – as the wood rots, the trees grow and provide a line that slows the snow down. The threat of avalanches is what the Gimmelwald residents used to keep their village local and tourism at a minimum. Mürren is much more commercial. I enjoyed the flowers, the local vegetables gardens, gnome villages set within the green, the cow bells, goats, and the beautiful hillsides of deep green. We saw the schoolhouse noted on Rick Steeve’s travel shows, as well as the BandB operated by the former school teachers.

Thick moss covered stone walls line the path to Gimmelwald. 

Naturally, the canyon is laced with streams....everywhere!

Approaching Gimmelwald
Rick follows the trail part of the path into town. 
We cut down a series of steps to enter Gimmelwald. 

One of the first houses as you enter the village.  
One of the houses had gnomes watching over. 
Probably one of the prettiest public drinking fountains I've ever seen! 
Looking back up the hillside from the middle of town. 
Street scene of Gimmelwald looking up a side valley toward glaciers! 

Murren Falls drops down near
Stechelberg. 
Glacial waters! 
We took the tram from Gimmelwald on down to the valley floor at Stechelberg (which I think is the village I saw the other night during a rare clearing) From here we take to the valley trail that winds along the Lochbrücke River (glacial fed and raging with milky white waters) The steep walls of the valley rise above us 2000’ or more on both sides. We remark that it feels somewhat like Yosemite. Everywhere are waterfalls pouring over the edges.

Rock piles!
In one spot I glance over to the rocks of the river and see hundreds of rock piles, not exactly inuks, but merely stacks. I find it fascinating to see!

We pass worn wooden shelters, cows (one with a very black face), goats, and grass greener than any I have seen in a while! There are a number of walkers along the trail, but no bicycles (not a great day for biking!)
I looked up high above me and saw these spires rising
among the clouds! 
Typical views as we wander along the river. 
My black face cow! 

About halfway to Lauterbrunnen, we come to a bridge over the river to the road side of the valley and access to Trümmelbach Falls. We decided to go explore this natural phenomenon of Lauterbrunnen. The falls are actually a series of 10 waterfalls hidden within the mountainside. Twenty-thousand liters of water per second are carving deep channels and caves within the mountain. We take a lift about 1000’ up to the mid point between the falls. A series of cement stairs and walkways carry visitors to the topmost waterfall. The chambers are WET; the volume of water pouring through incredible. Eventually we hike DOWN to the bottom past the lower falls (including one called the Corkscrew) and back to the valley floor.
Heading up the steep incline inside the mountain!
Rick grabs a picture at an overlook -
you can tell how wet it was! 
Before we enter the myriad of caves and chambers. 
Rick explores the rock walls. 
I think this is my favorite picture - with the tints
of blue!

Lower section by Corkscrew peeks across the valley. 

We grab the valley bus down the final couple miles to Lauterbrunnen, where we explore the town and Stabbach Falls (one of the highest freefalls in Switzerland at nearly 900’). We pass the town cemetery, which has to be one of the prettiest I have ever seen, with each grave bordered off into its own little garden. The flowers were amazing.
Outskirts of Lauterbrunnen
Steeple of the Lauterbrunnen Church
Lauterbrunnen Valley southward
Isn't this a beautiful cemetery??
Stabbach Falls

We grab a snack at a little cafe – soup and bread. Rick asks what kinds of soup they have today. Just one kind – Zucchini Cheese. Is there a choice of breads? Nope, just one! We order! And it is delicious, but also a little different from other soups we have had. Later Rick order a tart to share – a buckwheat ginger with strawberry filling? (We weren’t sure of the last part!) It was very good!!
We sat outside at the cafe and could see
this waterfall pour out into the valley.

The bathroom at the cafe
had chalk available, so I left
our mark!  
We explored a shop or two and I even tried on a shirt, but the European cut on t-shirts is not MY body cut. I opted not to purchase! So...after a walk down the main ‘drag’ of Lauterbrunnen, we got back on the tram for the ride back up the side of the valley walls.

Our 10 minute train ride after the tram takes us back to Mürren! And it is STILL raining here! Fortunately, for most of the day the clouds had cleared at valley level. The ride up the lift took us right back into the clouds!

We check the weather for tomorrow, but will make final decisions in the morning when we see how accurate the forecast is! A good day today…. In spite of the weather!


PS...we walked over 14,000 steps!  


SUNDAY, September 2
Hiking the North Face Trail
Mürren, Switzerland

We wake up to the BEST sight ever….Snowy peaks casting dark shadows in the Eastern sky. They were so much closer than I imagined! Right outside our window – reach out and touch! The moon was also still visible. Thank you, God!  Happy Sunday! 
Our view around 7am this morning.  Taken from the balcony.  
The Breithorn and mountains of the Jungfrau. 

After much debate and weather checking, we decided to hold to our plan to hike. The trip to the top of the Schilthorn on the tram would be awesome and we’ll do it tomorrow regardless of weather. But the views are nearly as incredible from the trail, and we want to HIKE IN THE ALPS!! So we are down for breakfast right at 7am (amazed how crowded the breakfast room is already!) and with full bellies we are headed for the trailhead shortly after 8 am. We
could take the funicular up to the trail’s end at Allmendhubel and save about a thousand feet of climbing, but the lift doesn’t open until 9 and we don’t know how much clear sky time we will have! (Which proved to be a good decision!)
Crazy lighting over the top of the 'Black Monk' as the sun rises. 
We follow these signs all the way! 
We are off on the North Face Trail!  

So off on another paved trail toward Gimmelwald (only higher up). Rick was very relieved when the trail turned to dirt. He wasn’t picturing quit that refined a trail! All in all, the path was wet and muddy much of the way from the recent rains, plus the cows walking all over it don’t help much. In that regard we were glad to be traveling uphill on the slick surface rather than downhill (the usual route for this well used trail). The clouds swirled below us, but for the first hour or so we had great views of the Jungrau, Monch, and Eiger behind us, and a whole range of peaks in front! Rich green grass and the sounds of cow bells marked our way. Also saw goats and sheep with bells on.
Buildings as we wind our way out of Muerren.

One of the few forested areas we passed through.  The forests are
one of the natural stops to the avalanches. 
Our trail will take us over part of this ridge.  

Fields and fields of lush green.  

This beautiful mountain scene deserves a full spread!  

We traveled past four separate ‘alps’ - the summer pastures for the cow herds. The herders tend to the milking morning and night and make cheese by day. We didn’t find any out for sale, but I guess the rule is you can buy it right from them. The cows are moved around from pasture to pasture, all separated by electric fences. We must have gone through a couple dozen gates. Sometimes the cows were separated by the fence, other times we walked right past them – not 3 feet away!
Wandering through one of the 'alp' regions
Rick talked gently to this cow as we hiked past.  
At least there was an electric fence between these cows and the trail! 
This alp provided a self service cafe.
One of the many
signposts.
Harebells and bladder campion

Wildflowers were more in abundance than I expected for this late in the season. We saw fireweed (nearly past), harebells, alpine pansy (which looked much like a yellow violet), bladder campion, buttercups, some type of gentian, yarrow, heather, and various berry laden bushes that I couldn’t identify.

The trail was well marked with Blue North Face signs, but a myriad of other paths and local trails intersect and wind all over the mountain. I was glad our route was clearly marked – it would have been easy to go astray!

At times it felt we were walking through the moors
of Scotland - cows, green, and thick mists!
About an hour into the hike, as we neared the stream that became Sturtz Falls, we lost our distant views. And as the day progressed, the clouds became thicker and thicker. By the time we got to Allmendhubel, we could hardly see 30’ in front of us! At one point we heard a whole symphony of cow bells, but we couldn’t find the cows!! They were lost in the clouds!

These mountain trails are old and you have to be amazed at the people who live high up on these hills, even if just in the summer time. Everything is built of wood and dampness penetrated all. So beautiful though.

We arrived at Allmendhubel shortly after 11am and went into the little restaurant to warm up and have some coffee and hot chocolate. Not cheap, but worth it!

Rick awaits the funicular. 
There is a ‘Flower Walk’ near the funicular that features many of the local flowers. I took lots of pictures of the signs to help me identify some of what we saw and to get an idea of what usually is growing in the summer months. Well done. There is also a kids playground that is awesome with giant flowers to climb on, a butterfly zip line, slides, swings, etc.

The town of Murren lies at the base of
the funicular
We took the funicular back down, opting not to hike the additional miles steeply downhill. Trips the length of town twice to find the ATM to pull out a few more francs (and visit the local little church) and we are back in the room by 2pm.
The church that sits in the middle of Murren


We went down to the restaurant a little later to get a bit to eat. (Can’t go shopping at the market on Sunday...it’s closed!) We decide on a pizza to split and find we are able to take it back up to the room to eat! Nice!

Afternoon spent editing pictures, blogging, writing postcards, etc. The forecast rain has not come yet, but we are definitely socked in with clouds. Nothing but white!! 


The flowers we saw (plus fireweed!)
 
MONDAY, September 3

SCHILTHORN PIZ GLORIA and RAIL to ZERMATT

We left it last night that we would look out the window this morning AND check the TV ‘view-cam’ and make our decision about heading up the mountain to the top of the Schilthorn at 9500’. The cable car was free (with our Swiss Travel Pass!) so money didn’t enter into the decision! It was going to be strictly visibility!!

Well, this is what we found when we woke up around 6:15: Decision made! Hallelujah and thank you, God!
The Eiger, Monch, and top of Jungfrau with Black Monk in front. 

Breakfast was MUCH quieter as the large Asian tour group had left and there were only 3-4 couples eating. We paid up our bill, and then decided to NOT check out completely, figuring we would be back down from the top before check-out official time. A fast walk down to the lift station at the other end of town, but we managed to be the last ones on the 7:40 ride. Whew! Murren itself was totally socked in by then. We were now going on hope and a prayer!

Heading up from Birg Station....
On top of the Schilthorn! 
And….around the Allmendhuber elevation we broke free of the clouds into beautiful sunshine! The entire car (which was packed full!) erupted into a cheer! On up to first stop Birg, which has viewing platforms and a thrill walk suspended out over the valley. It was clear, so we opted to grab the other cable up to the top. Our one poor choice of the day – the Piz Gloria was more fogged in! But we did get some great views of the mountains south of the Piz – the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau were all caught in the silhouette of the sun rising right behind them. We spent about 25 minutes up on top, taking pictures, and enjoying the COOL air (still icy snow out on the one platform!)
Looking back down at Birg from the top. 
A nice couple from Salt Lake City took our picture for us. 

View of hills above Allmendhuber, fog filled Lauterbrunnen Valley,
and distance peaks.

Dropping down the cable car into Lauterbrunnen.
We dropped back down to Birg in a nearly empty car – just three American couples, Baker City, Salt Lake City, and New York City. We had a fun time hearing their stories – one couple had just come from Zermatt. Birg by then was socked in, so we just hopped over to the descending tram and made our way back down to Murren. Quick stop at the Coop to pick up more bread and cheese.

We gather up our stuff, turn in our keys and bid Murren and the Edelweiss goodbye! We get to the train station just as the doors are closing, but catch the little engine over to our cable car connection down to
Lauterbrunnen is in such a cleft! 
Lauterbrunnen. The views are much better today than they were on Friday and Saturday – we can see Wenden set on the bench on the valley opposite above Lauterbrunnen, more waterfalls, and in general a better feel for the ‘lay of the land’.


 Another last minute catch of the train in Lauterbrunnen and we are on our way to Interlaken Ost! Ten minute wait for the train to Spietz, during which ride we stood the whole way. That was an interesting ride, as a group of a dozen Indian folk poured into the landing area between cars where we were standing. The number of people wasn’t bad, but they all had giant rolling suitcases. The men of the group just kept loading them on and Rick and I kept moving closer to the opposite wall! They eventually stacked them all up and much of the group managed to find seats. A couple of them sat on the steps next to us!
Random church we passed
along the way! 

But we were in Spietz within 20 minutes or so – the train traveling about halfway along Lake Thun to the west. From Spietz we had our longest layover – about 45 minutes to wait for the direct express down to Visp and Brig.

I felt at home!
A Shell station!!
The Matterhorn Gotthardbahn is the private railway that operates between Visp and Zermatt. It is the only way by rail into Zermatt. The railway travels up the narrow canyon of the Visp River, with views of Mount Rosa in the distance (the Matterhorn is off to the west) It doesn’t travel fast, but you can see why avalanches can close the railway in the winter months. The walls are steep!

Mount Rosa beckons at the end of the valley.
There is a road into Zermatt, but once in the city cars are not allowed. There are, instead, tons of little electric taxis darting all over the place along very narrow one lane roads. Nearly every building has decks laden with geraniums and flowers. We made a few wrong turns, but using the little map in Rick Steve’s book, we found the Hotel Astoria!
Not a great shot of this awesome bridge span.  A double decker.  Later we find a new bridge being built downstream.  The gorge must be 200' deep!  

One of many waterfalls crashing down the steep walls of the canyon. 

The unique church towel in St. Nicklaus. 

Quick look at our train as it rounds a corner.  

Our old world HEAVY key
Trish outdid herself here! We are booked on the third floor, in what I would consider the second best room in the place (the best has a slightly bigger view of the mountain). We have a huge wrap-around balcony, flower boxes, comfy chairs for sitting, deck chairs, entry closets, and old world charm! Frilly curtains! More duvet coverings for the beds, but the windows here have some screens, so we can leave them open at night! Impressive! And….the best news? We catch glimpses of the Matterhorn all afternoon as the clouds dart in and around it. Never the whole mountain clear as a bell, but enough to know for sure that it is there!
A few photos from the Hotel Astoria.  
The bell tower of the
Catholic Church rings
every quarter hour!

There is an old Catholic church just up the hill on the other side of the river, and we can hear the steeple bells rings on the quarter hour.

The flower boxes on our balcony.  Matterhorn in
in the clouds. 
We got settled and then took a walk around town to explore and find a place to grab a bite to eat. We couldn’t really decide on WHAT we wanted (other than Rick was hungry!), nor find a place for take-out, so we wandered checking menus in front of lots of places. We did pass the local MacDonald’s which Rick quickly nixed! Found the Tourist Info center down by the rail station and that answered some of our questions about possibilities for tomorrow. We are hiking! Taking one of the less popular lifts up Mount Rosa aways, and then a trail that links 5 little lakes – all with views across to the peak. The forecast is GOOD!! Sunshine!

More window boxes on a downtop shop.  
We walk back to the Homemade Cafe and grab a couple of sandwiches for dinner, taking them back to the room with us. (We don’t like paying the price they charge for a glass of water around here and we had water and wine in the room!)

What a pleasant evening as the sun sets behind the ridge to the northwest of us, the clouds still dancing around the peak, time out on the balcony listening to the myriad of languages wandering the street below us.





Zermatt at night from our balcony.  
Our wake-up view!

Tuesday, September 4
HIKING near the MATTERHORN!!

Walking down the long tunnel to the funicular
lift up to Sunnega.  
Finally up to Blauherd. 
I cannot even begin to decribe the awesomeness of today. We woke up around 6:30 to see the Matterhorn clear as a bell in the pre-dawn light. Breakfast downstairs in the hotel – what we have come to assume is the usual Swiss fare: cheese, meats, breads, yogurts and mueseli, fresh fruit juice and fruits, and coffee – served in a myriad of ways! We walk down to the Sunnega lift around 8:45 – this is a funicular that climbs 3000’ up the mountain in a short 4 minutes to an elevation 2228m. Then we take the cable car from the ski lift to Blauherd, final elevation of 2571m. You can’t go clear to the top of the ski area right now because they are doing work up there. We exit around 7500’ - 8000’ elevation into a vast panorama of peaks. I think it takes Rick 20 minutes to even move past the 50’ mark because he is absolutely entranced with the geology of the area.
Grand Gendarme 4500m across the valley from Mount Rosa.  

Our route for the day...more or less! 
It is a glorious morning!! We couldn’t have asked for anything more amazing. Crisp, clear, and sunshine! Our intended route for the day is the 5 Lake circle called the 5 Seenweg. From what we
Matterhorn from Blauherd
can figure, See has something to do with lakes, and weg is a trail! Our trail is to pass by 5 lakes! It is presumably mostly downhill, as we will end at Sunnega, having started at Blauherd.
Panorama from just above Blauherd (lift in foreground).  Glacier Point far left to Weisshorn far right. 

Rick at the Matterhorn

Ging with Matterhorn in background. 
Such a majestic mountain. 
Weisshorn with cable going up. 


Not sure what seed pods these were,
but there was a whole meadow/marsh
area covered with them. 
A gradual downhill (more or less) to the Stellisee, which is known as the reflection lake for the Matterhorn. There are LOTS of people around the lake as the beauty of the day seems to have drawn hikers from all over the world! A couple from Asia took our picture, and then I turned around and took pictures for a young gal traveling alone. I found a batch of fireweed still in bloom that provided a perfect accompaniment to the peak.

Hiking Ginger. 

Strahlhorn and Alderhorn to the southeast reflected in Stellisee. 

Matterhorn reflected in Stellisee. 

Reflection scene. 

Always nice when someone offers to take your 'selfie' for you! 


Blue lakes, jagged peaks with snow, and fireweed - is this not a perfect picture??

We opted to add to our hike and forge upward to the Fluhalp hut which used to be at the base of the Findelgletscher (glacier). Unfortunately the glacier has retreated and is a long ways up from the hut! Elevation at Fluhalf probably around 3000m, but it isn’t noted on the map. We found a potty break there, even if we didn’t stop to have coffee, etc. We are impressed with the Swiss concentration on family values – there are often playgrounds at all the sites with areas for children to let loose! Even the hut had a playground!
As we leave Stellisee and head up to the Fluhalp Hut.  You can see the lake seems to teeter right on the edge of the cirque.  
Rick tackles the last portion of the scree slope -
one of the nicest I've hiked since they put flat rocks
to mark the trail!  Alderhorn in background.
Quick stop for pictures.   Rick takes a photo of Ging
taking photos (not hard a picture to capture!)
The Fluhalp hut (and playground) with glaciers in back. 
I just can't resist a rock cairn!
There's my happy man! 

Willow gentian
We hike down glacial scrubbed valley
to Grindjisee. 
We hiked with far less company for the next mile or so as we wandered DOWN a small glacial valley (complete with snow making hoses) toward a junction with the trail from Stellisee. Fascinating area, especially with terrific views back (albeit into the sunshine) toward the peaks just west of Mount Rosa.

Found two such
crosses along the
trail. 
Our next lake was Grindjisee – set down in a hollow formed by morraines and the outlet creeks from Stellisee and the upper glacier. Grindjisee was fairly shallow and very overladden with moss and algae. There was a thick grove of larch in the area which was a surprise to us. In fact, the predominant tree of the hike was larch.
Waterfalls from Stellisee and the creek came together at Grindjisee, which
was a small algae filled lake in a morraine hollow. 
Trees lined the trail between Grindjisee and Grundsee. Grand Gendarme.
I never would have expected the Matterhorn framed by LARCH trees!

Flower! 
From Grindjisee, we contoured in and around until we came to Grundsee at 2300m. Grundsee was glacial with a deep turquoise color. The hillsides above it were beginning to show evidence of fall with the reds or low growing plants emerging. Just below Grundsee is a hut with a full restaurant. We got ice cream cones and sat on the terrace and enjoyed! The Matterhorn by this time was gathering a layer of clouds, at one point it looked like it had a halo!
Looking across the creek to 4500m Grand Gendarme.
Hillsides were beginning to turn red in places!  Strahlhorn and Alderhorn in back. 
Grundsee.  Grand Gendarme in background.  Matterhorn is just off to the left. 
Open fields as we walk down to the hut at Grundsee. 
Matterhorn gathered clouds - this looks like a halo! 

Peak and windowbox flowers at Grundsee hut. 

Grundsee hut as we headed out.  Strahlhorn and Alderhorn in background.

Twisted old tree
along switchbacks.
We've seen this flower
often - it opens only
when sun shines!
Then DOWN through a series of switchbacks, passing a hiker who we admired greatly. He had just one leg and was using arm crutches. Obviously well adjusted to the option, saying ‘its just a leg!’ But wow – it was not an easy trail to negotiate in places. At the bottom of the switchbacks we came to the creek again – now gathering momentum and soon to be a source of hydroelectric power for the valley.

Moosjisee is our fourth lake – an intense turquoise and the site of a small dam and the hydro plant. It was also where we began the process of climbing back UP to the Sunnegga lift station! And a steep UP it was! But we passed some flowers and otherwise great views on the way!
Looking down on powerplant just above Moosjisee. 

Moosjisee and Matterhorn. 

View back up canyon at Moosjisee and peaks as we climb STEEPLY back up! 

Our last lake was Leisee, which is right below the Sennegga station. It features a self-propelled ‘ferry’ system across the lake, a children’s playground, and a swimming beach. Leisee is advertised as a family destination!
Village of F....rests on a bench.  We climb up above it! 
Para gliders dot the skies all day long! 
More beautiful vistas....uphill climb - had to stop and take pictures!

Leeisee - the last lake stop.  Grand Gendarme background.

Children's playground area at Leeisee

Grand Gendarme north of Zermatt.  Major avalanche danger area!  Hill on right was laced with fences. 


We are tired...at least I am! My pedometer says we have traveled nearly 9 miles since 10am and 16,000 steps!! We go through another long tunnel and get on the funicular back down to Zermatt. It seems to go very fast downhill. I had to hope it would stop at the bottom!!

We walk down to the train station to clarify a few things for tomorrow, with the nice guy at the Info center printing us a departure schedule for tomorrow. We have to be out of here early in order to make our connection in Brig!

We stop at the Coop and pick up some 50% off salad for dinner, plus treats for breakfast tomorrow, since we will have to leave before breakfast really opens. Then back to the room to eat, relax, edit pictures, and try to post things from the day! The wifi on the top floor is less than ideal for posting pictures!

We enjoy some folk music for about an hour or more from the pub below us - a wide range of music from the states with a young man with a great voice!  

Tomorrow we are off for Italy and Bellagio! 


Wednesday, September 05
Leaving Zermatt and Switzerland

Matterhorn's final display as we
walked to leave Zermatt.
We are up around 6:15 (after a restless night for me I’m afraid!) to make some connections today. Prolly the reason I didn’t sleep well! Grab a couple of apples from the breakfast counter (we had received permission the day before since we were leaving before they officially opened.) On our way to walk back down to the train station, but stopped to enjoy one last view of the Matterhorn as we left. It promised to be another glorious day in paradise!
Zermatt Station

Early enough that Rick had time to go use up the last of our Swiss Francs in a coin op coffee machine at the station. He came back with two LARGE cafe mochas – the only choice! Happy, since we are leaving with only 40 cents in Swiss currency! Maybe I’ll make earrings from them!

Beautiful train ride back through the narrow canyon, watching the sun creep down the hillsides and lighting up the waterfalls and rocks. We could see Mount Rosa reflected in the windows behind us much of the way. But….a little tense because our train was running late and we had a
QUICK connection to make to get our train to Brig. We had to be in Brig on time because that was a reservation!!

From center of Brig rail station - peaks to the north.
There were villages up on every 'shelf'!
Yet, we made it! We were late getting in, but Rick and I actually boarded an earlier train than we intended! We had about a 45 minute layover in Brig, which isn’t much of a station for waiting! But we both took a stroll and in general enjoyed the mountains north of town – mountains we hadn’t been able to see earlier in the week.

Our train pulled in – a sleek EuroExpress and the cars had numbers. We started to get on the wrong car, and then I lost Rick temporarily….he was already on the right car! We found our seats, but Rick had to seek out a place for the big suitcase. Fortunately, no one was in the seats that rounded out our ‘Foursome’ so we had a little wiggle room!


The train almost immediately entered a long dark tunnel that basically ended the Switzerland portion of our trip. We emerged about a half hour later in Italy!!! 
A rough map of our route through Switzerland!  


On to Italy!!